Wanting to buy a car from Husband's uncle but I noticed that the vehicle didn't idle creep, and I noticed that while driving when the vehicle was shifting gears it felt a bit chunky? Like you could FEEL it changing gears. No real loud noises, just noticeable.
Normally when you take your foot off the brake the vehicle should begin moving, right? So what does it mean if the vehicle DOESN'T do that. I know this has a "sports mode" so I'm curious if it doesn't move because it can be used as a manual? I'm unsure. I was using it as an automatic the whole time, and didn't know about the sports function until after.
I know SOME vehicles have some safety features where the vehicle won't creep if the vehicle has been at a complete stop, but I don't know if that means anything here. The vehicle can drive, it just doesn't creep, and so again, not sure if it's normal with this vehicle or not.
Any and all help would be appreciated as they want an answer soon.
Always helps to know
But from your description I am leaning towards low trans fluid would be my first guess, Read the proper way to check the level, Differs for most car, And check the fluid level and go from there. If it has been run on low fluid for quite some time the trans could be damaged or you could put fluid in it and it runs fine for 100,000 more miles.
It should creep forward regardless of any sport mode.
That was my fear, and the year make and model is in the Title. As far as mileage it's 141000 ish.
you better be a homosexual, im not talking about cars to some f*male
Dont see how gender has any relevance when I'm asking such a simple question but okay.
it probably just needs the transmission fluid and filter changed. I would insist the uncle have it done before you buy it because Honda wasn't really known for making the best automatic transmissions especially when people don't take care of them.
Also along with this, whatever mechanic you have do the transmission fluid change, make sure to have them look at the old fluid for any pearlescence like metal. If theres a bunch of metal in the fluid thats a sign of bad transmission health and you don't wanna be on the hook for spending like 3-5k to get it rebuilt or buying another one.
So you're suggesting a full flush and to drop the pan and replace the filter? And then to ask them to check if there is any metal shavings in the fluid? Would a transmission flush alone be sufficient, or do we need to replace the filter? Because I don't think they're gonna want to do that. They just had some body work done to it. How much does it typically cost to replace the filter?
I would check the level first and add if needed to see if that fixes the problem.
No sense doing a flush and filter change if that is not the issue.
They usually cost around $200-$300 at leas at the shop I worked at. Depends how much fluid it needs and the make/model of the car.
Okay. I just hope the relatives are understanding when I tell them what I think needs to be done and they aren't offended. We went to look yesterday and as I've worked at lube shop I knew a BIT about cars, and the only thing throwing me off is the transmission. I was being rushed by my Mother in law and husband's (due to the heat) and so I didn't get to check the transmission fluid accurately, but now that I know this info, I will relay it to them. Thanks again!
People selling nearly broken shitboxes are always in a hurry to make sure you dont notice the reason they are selling it. Id be looking elsewhere because its going to create relationship stress if it breaks down, and they will nag and gaslight you if the transmission craps out in 2 weeks
The people selling weren't rushing me, the people that took me to loo at it were. Theyre on the fence of keeping the vehicle as it's a monetary thing for them to have multiple vehicles, but they like it so much they wanna keep it? They're asking 4k.which looking on bluebook, is pretty cheap.
Makes sense, but just assume the transmission will crap out in the near future and keep a few thousand dollars saved up.
I mean its not your typical transmission flush. The transmission clearly has an issue which is not having a rolling idle. It's why I would insist on checking the used fluid because there could be more damage.
Well yes but correct me if I'm wrong but a tranmission flush consists of hooking a machine up to the torque lines, where you then pump new fluid in, and old fluid out, and afterwards you can see the old fluid? At least, that's how it was in my shop. Took about 20 mins.
>a full flush
if you do do this, do NOT hook it up to one of those external flushing machines. newer or well maintained gearboxes you can get away with doing this, but on one as old as yours and with the kind of problems it has, a high pressure flushing machine will likely kill it quick.
If it has a trans cooler (typically in the bottom of the radiator, look for hoses going to and from the radiator and gearbox) unplug the cooler inlet line, run the engine for a bit then replace whatever fluid was lost. do this until the fluid is a nice fresh colour. depending on how slow or fast the oil pump pushes fluid around, you may either need to start and stop the engine multiple times quickly, or you might be able to just keep it idling as you pour in new fluid.
need to get it off the ground to properly flush
how would getting it off the ground allow a proper flush? only thing i can think of is ease of access, since the tranny's oil pump will pump out all the old fluid eventually
Check the stall speed by power braking it in first gear. I suspect the torque converter is damaged or you have low line pressure in the transmission.
The RPM's should not exceed like 2.5K at the most, but the car's service manual will tell you the design specified stall speed.