Okay I'm fucking sick and tired of all the bullshit. I want to know what's the best brakes, I keep burning the shit out of my brakes, I just want brakes that actually work. I'm tired of pressing the pedal and car refusing to stop.
Okay I'm fucking sick and tired of all the bullshit.
that's such a broad question that I'm starting to question your mental capacities. You've given no information on make and model, as well as nothing on what you've already tried or have on. I find it very odd you'd have brake fade worse than my 1968 car with manual drums.
2019 Dodge Grand Caravan, assume I'm driving it like a maniac with a death wish. Brakes fade to shit after a fee hard stops.
Honestly if you're leaning on the brakes this hard constantly that you are somehow causing the stock discs to fade to shit after a few stops have you considered upgrading your front discs to something more aggressive? It's a pricy upgrade but short of adjusting your driving habits it seems that most of the problem is user.
I don't lean on the brakes. I'm hooning the fuck out it. Think blasting down county roads at 110mph with frequent hard dumps.
i hate that my wife and kids have to share the road with fuckheads like you. i can't wait until you post your whining thread about how you lost your license for driving like a shithead.
drilled help them cool quicker, i always get drilled rotors as i do a lot of mountain driving
drilled rotors are more likely to crack under hard use. they do provide better cooling capacity like you say however.
but even then that's not needed; go to any track day and look at how many people run plain or slotted rotors.
pads will make the biggest difference, then get dot 4 or even dot 5.1 brake fluid for higher boiling points. see if you can bolt on calipers from other models if you cant find street + track rated pads for your car.
nvm about the fluid, saw that you've got 5.1 in it already. get motul rb660 or castrol srf fluid lol. and post video of how you're braking too
>. Think blasting down county roads at 110mph with frequent hard dumps
You sound like an insane person. When I'm hooning down backroads I stay under 60 when the speed limits are 40. You're driving a fucking SUV, its not a car meant to be fun, its a A to B utility vehicle. You are going to get in a crash one day, guaranteed.
>You sound like an insane person
what gave it away?
You've triggered a bunch of sissies in this thread, great work king
I do the same thing, skill issue.
I took a vehicle which has NO performance design, fucking redlined it, and stand on the brakes. How could I possibly be doing anything wrong? Is the evidence all the instances of you slamming into shit or almost dying? Why is rock bottom OEM not able to handle my retarded ass?
Get a smaller car before you spin your shitty momma SUV into a tree. Or better yet keep going and let the problem sort itself.
AP racing bbk
hawk er1 pads unless youre on slicks
>2019 Dodge Grand Caravan
lmao this place is embarassing
>2019
I have factory brakes on a 1990.
It's not the brakes, it's you.
Luckily you'll die soon and be removed from the gene pool, I just hope you don't take out a bus full of nuns.
>I just hope you don't take out a bus full of nuns.
True, a fresh supply of pussy would go to waste
stop driving like a nagger to the point of your fluid boiling, brakes on those are fucking massive and they stop hard driving normally.
what a stupid fucking question i hope you wrap yourself around a tree so we can post you in headcrush maximum threads.
Seriously, this is 100% nagger driving and he's going to piledrive some innocent person around a blind corner in his shitbox van.
sadly my death won't be so spectacular, when I die no one will even know
That fact and this thread are related.
Maybe you should think about that.
>hooning a big fat minivan
There's your problem.
Vented (and maybe grooved) disks, aggressive pads, high temp brake fluid. Add some DIY brake ducts to the front bumper for better airflow.
Get the highest hawk pads for that race van
Change your brake fluid with dot 4, replace your rotors with premium blank coated ones, and get some street sport pads for it like the power stop Z23 Rockauto carries for it. There's a wide range of pads with operating temperature ranges, and I'm guessing yours are cheap junk meant for grandmas. You're gonna want pads with a compound geared more towards track day nerds who are gonna put lots of heat into them.
You sure your calipers or pads arent seized or something? Maybe brake flex lines going bad?
Only time i ever got brake fade was when i was purposely going 45 to zero over and over when trying to recreate an issue some customer was complaining about.
So youre basically flooring it from stop sign to stop sign? Try stripping the interior down then. All that weight stores a shitload of energy
Why the fuck are you hooning a grand caravan to the point you need upgraded rotors and pads? It's a 2019 model and those parts you have on there probably cost a fair bit so you can't be that poor. Just get something lighter with better brakes from factory so you can lay into them without boiling your fluid.
Or if you really are stuck with that piece of shit then strip the interior, and lose whatever weight you can afford to lose (aircon, etc). Get bigger wheels, then fit the biggest disk you can under there and get some upgraded calipers, either from some other model that bolts on or pay someone to make brackets to fit calipers from something that is actually designed to go fast. Get rid of the front foglights and run ducting from the holes to the inside of the wheelwell pointing at the back of the brakes to help cool them off somewhat.
I used to drive a heavy/loaded minivan for work all day every day. It also had problems with constantly needing brakes.
I put "powerstop z36" pads/rotors in the front, and z23 in the rear. They worked way better, made less dust, and stopped faster. They seemed to stay cooler, too.
rub brake fluid on the discs, they are most likely overheating.
Stop tailgating and hitting the brakes every 5 seconds Stacy
There's no one to tailgate out here, it's nowhere rural America.
i can personally vouch for dixcel z-type pads. they're more or less the jap version of ebc yellowstuffs. but unfortunately they don't make pads for any dodge models.
it isn't much to compare to, but from whatever bendix pads the previous owner put on, these held up to several hours of mountain road hooning with absolutely no fade whatsoever. they make a shitload of brake dust however so your wheels will get coated in no time
you're going to want hydraulic brakes. basically they use a fluid-filled brake line that connects to little pistons on the rotors. when you press on the pedal, it transmits force to the piston which presses on the brake pad. very efficient.
yes, except they almost completely stop working when hot
It might be your car and how cheap they decided to go. We had a 2008 grand caravan. New brakes every 5-8000 miles. Junk. There was even a class action suit. They fixed the problem with bigger brakes in later years. OEM brakes on our 2007 elantra lasted over 60k. Father could only get 15k out of his 2000 grand prix. See where I'm going here? What car?
Current brakes are powerstop Z36 which are supposed to be (HG) rated, with drilled and slotted rotors.
>drilled
cringe
>supposed to be (HG) rated
Supposed to be? Did you not read the edge code for yourself?
And assuming they are HG (which I doubt, as heavy-duty brake pads are usually very hard, as they are building for long life) why would you buy a pad that states ON THE PAD that it fades with heat?
They are HG rated.
Current fluid is Motul Dot 5.1
Pads are Power Stop Z36
Rotors are Power Stop drilled and slotted
Just get some HH rated pads, you'll eat rotors but if you want race car stopping power you have to make a sacrifice.
>drilled and slotted rotors
fucking ricer
powerstops' drilled and slotted rotors are no meme, iPhone user
My brake pads will last 200,000 miles with how little I use them.
why do amerimutts like dodge SUVs?
Cheap, poor, every soccer mom in the 90s had one.
bleed your brake lines, retard.
Yeah I already tried that, even flushed it with Dot 5.1
This isn't just an issue with this specific vehicle, pretty much every car I've even driven has had shit brakes that just give up when they get a little hot.
did you try not driving like a retard?
Are you driving with your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas?
this has to be a troll thread...i hoon the shit out of my gti & its never faded with oem brembos/mid tier pads
I want to see you drive, in video
>pretty much every car I've even driven has had shit brakes
I wonder what the common denominator might be?
Learn to drive and your brakes will last forever.
are you talking racing brakes or daily brakes? Big diference between them
Apparently not in his fuckin skull.
eddy current brakes
the faster you go the better they work
based af, I wish there was a bolt on option
apparently their bulk is such that they are affixed to the prop shaft
http://www.kloft-retarder.com/Products%20Recreational%20Vehicle.htm
the smallest version PK.1 is specified for vehicles around 3 to 4 ton
>I keep burning the shit out of my brakes
this is a skill issue
not a skill issue, the brakes simply can't keep up with me, this wouldn't be an issue if the brakes could handle my insanity
i get flat spots in my tires before noticing anything wrong with brakes.
I work at NAPA, and the answer you're looking for is Akebono Pro-ACT. I've spoken to hundreds of mechanics and they all agree that Akebono is the best and store-brand stuff is mostly shit. Other good brands would be Brembo, Nissin (JDM specific), and Zimmermann (Euro specific).
https://www.napaonline.com/en/knowhow/akebono
Just like with Harbor Freight tools, the store-brand brake pads have different quality levels.
>NAPA Proformer (yellow/blue box) are low-tier, and they're now being replaced by NAPA StopRite (white box) which are EVEN SHITTIER. The only people that buy them are scumbag used car dealers and ghetto people. I don't understand why it's legal to sell these, they must be causing accidents.
>NAPA Premium (blue/silver box) are mid-tier, and they're now being replaced by NAPA SilentGuard (same blue/silver box). I've used these as rear pads and they work well, but I still wouldn't recommended them for the front.
>NAPA Adaptive One (gold box) are high-tier, but only when Akebono isn't available. I've used both and although they both stop well, Akebono definitely last longer.
>NAPA Fleet (orange/grey box) are not meant for the public. We sell them to the public works departments for their snow plows, ambulances, police cars, and garbage/fire trucks. They work well, but they're only meant to be used in combination with the Fleet rotors. People assume that because Fleet pads cost just as much as Akebono that means they'll work exactly the same. So they put Fleet pads on their passenger trucks and end up destroying their stock rotors.
Not all brake pads come with new mounting hardware. Sometimes you have to buy it separately even with expensive pads, so open the box to check before you leave the store. Make sure your caliper guide pins are cleaned and lightly lubricated. People think that doing a brake job is just replacing the pads and lubricating the hardware, so they never clean their pins and they get premature wear from the pads sticking.
In regards to rotors, I'd say 85% of the stuff we sell are the Premium (brown box), 10% are Adaptive One (silver box), and 5% are Proformer (white box).
The Proformer rotors (white box) are shit for new cars, but they seem to work well for older, lighter cars like 2-door Civics. The only ones I've actually used are the Premium (brown box) and Adaptive One (silver box) and they both work well.
Just know that if you buy the Adaptive One (silver box) you're not necessarily paying more for the material, but for the anti-rust paint coating. Both are still made of 100% Iron. You can purchase the Premium (brown box) and coat them yourself using VHT spray paint (pic related).
The aftermarket rotors from Akebono, Brembo, Nissin, and Zimmermann probably do offer superior quality, but I don't know because we don't even bother stocking them.
what brakes do i get if i want them to squeak like motherfuckers
semi metallic pads on cheap uncoated drilled and slotted rotors, then don't lubricate the ears of the pads on the hardware or the backsides where it touches the caliper
semi metallic non-chamfered edge brake pads
op what is your transmission fluid temperature? ever changed the fluid?
yeah, when I bought the van it already had over 100,000 miles on it so one of the first things I did was change the transmission filter and fluid, yes I used ATF+4
You fag should engine break but you have the automatic . dumb ass
Have you ever thought of stopping driving like an idiot so your car doesn't wear down quicker?
Look into hypermiling and you won't have to bring up bullshit about brakes again.
Don't drive like a nagger then. Engine brake. Coast to a stop.
>I want to know what's the best brakes
manual transmission engine braking
The same dumbass boiling his brake fluid would fail to rev match and burn through a clutch. That being said OP has a slushbox van so engine braking may not be an option.
Either way the answer is OP has a skill issue. The difference between threshold braking right before the turn and smoothly braking a few car lengths early is tenths of a second. OP is burning through tires and brake pads to larp as a race car driver and shave 45 seconds off a 15 minute trip. Do yourself a favor and let the brake fade carry you into an inanimate object so you stop before you hurt someone else.
even the Chryslers with the dial shifter have an L gear for engine braking as does literally every automatic ever made
Dropping one gear is not going to add substantial engine braking for someone thrashing it. You'd need to drop to the lowest possible gear and even then most manual mode autos rev match and don't actually allow much braking.
>I want to know what's the best brakes
Drums with single-leading shoes. 100 years can't be wrong
OP u actually confirming here that u don't know how to drive.
just don't use ur brakes? if u use ur brakes u are actually bad driver, whenever u think u will need to use the brakes, SLOW DOWN to time so that u wont need to. brakes are only for emergency and parking
>t.flatland dweller
The best brakes are the ones that work for you