>Me.
Ok. But I have my own anecdotal evidence where 5 of my cars run better on more expensive oil. Perhaps a cheap product loves cheap oil, makes sense, right?
You still haven't explained how y'all lost that suit.
Not sperging here, just tired of shills being autistic about "muh PAO" without any explination.
>poors larping mineral is a synthetic
Meanwhile in aviation >only synthetic for jets >polyphenol ether for sr71 black bird
If true 100% synthetics is what keeps a jet alive in alaska and miami I want that shit in my car. Just because your additive package is a full synthetic doesn't mean the base oil is too.
>additive package
It's not the additive package, it's that the only advantage to "synthetics" for automotive oil is the complete lack of paraffin, which means you don't need as many viscosity modifiers to make the labled viscosity.
Most modern cars now come from the factory with synthetic oil and low tension piston rings. A 0w16 has to be a "full synthetic" the additive package is now what keeps engines alive.
>. A 0w16 has to be a "full synthetic > additive package
Paraffin-free dino oil can make 0w15 without viscosity modifiers at all, as it's the paraffin that is responsible for much of oil's thickining when it gets cold.
Castrol won the right to call it's oil "Synthetic" in court because it proved that the only figure of merit for synthetic motor oil was lack of paraffin.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Why not start by stacking decane into balls of pao? I just like it because it never came from the under the ground neither did much of the e85 I use. My car still feels new but I believe you can just do that by maintenance.
Step aside. >inb4 someone posts the superior 5w-30 which is labeled "diesel only" now but the formula never changed and it's the same formula as when it was labeled for both gas & diesel
Run that shit in my daily and lab reports have started coming back cleaner than when I was using pennz. Cheap while still maintaining quality is important to me since I'm averaging 30-40k miles a year and change every 5k.
Job requires driving to sites all over the state. They decline to give company cars so we get paid mileage from when we roll out of the garage to the site and then back again or to a hotel depending on how far I went that day.
I get great fuel economy and she runs on the corn liquor so about 2/3 of the mileage money goes into an account for the car's eventual replacement. I siphon a little off of it every now and then to stock up on maintenance stuff like oil and filters.
I just get whats on sale for my vehicle, so last time I got a bunch of motul motorcycle oil for my motorcycles on auction.
I don't drive the cars much unless I have to.
idk mang.
the IdoCars israelitetube channel always seems to have engines that died from oil issues.
I feel like someone who recycles cars for a living gets a good feel for why most engines fail.
and it's oil 9 times out of 10.
Neglecting to change oil at regular intervals or letting it run out of oil is very different from just using a cheaper brand of oil with a marginally different addative package.
It matters but only if you keep oil of a somewhat correct type in the vehicle.
Never had a >crash, rust, head gasket issue
Have had some oil related lifter issues and phaser issues(yeah ford modulars).
Renault 25 - Cheapest shit I could find, engine seized on a highway drive
Ford Sierra - Rebuilt engine, cheapest oil I could find that had "proper specifications", 2 weeks and 3000km in and back to blue smoke
Volvo 850 T5 - Meguin Oil (Bought out by Liqui Moly), oil changes every 7k km, one day heard slight tapping coming from the engine. Tore apart the bottom end.
every internet engine oil debate ever >i only use amsoil's finest PAO ester and change it every 3000 miles, my engine has been running like a top for the past 20 years >i just use whatever's on sale at walmart. been doing it for the past 20 years and so far the car hasn't complained about it
go figure.
Blackstone has said the same thing as well, they're like "I dunno, use whatever, we haven't seen a difference"
Use synthetic at roughly the recommended weight, unless it's like bootleg Chinese horse hooves or something it'll be fine.
Modern engines with modern synthetic oils are virtually never the cause of failure as long as the oil is changed at least every 10,000 miles or so. Every engine failure I see is caused by some combination of problems that leads to overheating, something left in the engine after servicing, oil literally never changed, coolant/brake fluid poured into the oil fill (i.e. retards), or something along those lines.
Now what *does* kill engines is retarded homosexuals ragging on them when cold, not letting them cool down with slow driving before shutting them off, sustaining high revvs for no reason, burnouts, donuts, towing oversized loads, etc. If you beat on your engine nonstop it doesn't matter what oil you use or how often you change it, it will have a short life.
>retarded homosexuals ragging on them when cold
cringed hard when one of the sales guys at work revved his camry's engine to 5k rpm immediately after it turned over. when it went back to idle it sounded like a diesel lmao
There’s some guy by the name of 540 that has a big Chevy block he does tests on and I think he’s really into some reading about the pressure/breakdown of the oil due to heat. He was really into putting 5w-30 over other viscosities although that sounds risky when a lot of engines are supposedly made for these thinner 0w-20 and 5w-20 oils
Quaker state seemed to be the brand name that was still cheap but best bang for buck when Walmart has it under $25 a jug regularly. All other names seemed to do well with the obvious amsoil and a few others coming in top. It was also the product line that was just ‘full synthetic’ I believe and not their marketed gold label ultimate whatever they call it
Supertech still rated within his good scale which was above average and then mediocre or dangerous. Typically in warmer environments the oils would rate a level lower so it was still acceptable which is well known anyways with people using it for years. Just not something to really bang out high rev engines to ideally
TLDR Quaker state and valvoline are brand names that are worth the extra $5 versus Walmart oil if you had to get something arguably better
It’s a great oil and I think they’re 0w-20 rated in his top 10 out of hundreds of tests just probably not worth the cost for light drivers in general but nothing wrong too. A lot of old shit boxes need short intervals so running through supertech is probably wiser
>He was really into putting 5w-30 over other viscosities although that sounds risky when a lot of engines are supposedly made for these thinner 0w-20 and 5w-20 oils
I'm almost 100% convinced that's due to US emissions standards bs. My 4runner calls for 0w20 in the US but in every other market the engine is sold in it can use anything from 0w20 to 20w50 based on ambient Temps. This is all according to the user manuals in different countries.
I ran into oil starvation issues running Supertech on a car with only 70,000 miles (over 20 years). Had to use Seafoam to clean it out.
How does a car that's had multiple synthetic oil changes in 70k miles sludge up?
>poors larping mineral is a synthetic
Meanwhile in aviation >only synthetic for jets >polyphenol ether for sr71 black bird
If true 100% synthetics is what keeps a jet alive in alaska and miami I want that shit in my car. Just because your additive package is a full synthetic doesn't mean the base oil is too.
Most modern cars now come from the factory with synthetic oil and low tension piston rings. A 0w16 has to be a "full synthetic" the additive package is now what keeps engines alive.
This is how our society works.
People think that companies all make their shit in house but that's not the case. Its easier and much quicker to get your product out there if you just outsource the manufacturing of your product to someone else.
These companies specialize in making specific types of products and all the big brands will come to them. Then, once those companies get recipe for something (oil, for this instance) they can make the exact same product as the fancy brands like Mobil 1. Off brands and companies like Walmart and Amazon know this and decide to buy that same oil from the 3rd party manufacturer and use it for themselves under their own label.
IT happens all the time across different industries. Take those homosexuals Ben and Jerry. They just outsource their ice cream to be made across the country and grocery stores will buy from the 3rd party manufacturer the exact same recipe and just slap their name on it but sell it cheaper.
proofs?
Me. My Mirage feels better after I change my oil with Super Tech Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil
My amsoil focus never really feels hugely different. I do get like 3 more mpg. After 8000 miles the oil is cleaner than mobil1 at 5,000 miles
>Me.
Ok. But I have my own anecdotal evidence where 5 of my cars run better on more expensive oil. Perhaps a cheap product loves cheap oil, makes sense, right?
>sample size = 1
?si=7jIhNpsNouhd2ErW
Huhuh
Not amsoil thats a PAO. Or redline esters either. Mogs the shit out of malshart mineral. Maybe as good as like mobil1 but who fucking cares lmao.
Very good. Now explain to the thread exactly how and why Castrol won the right to call their dino oil "Synthetic" in court. If you can.
While it's true that dino can be called "synthetic" in the USA, that does not make it a true synthetic.
Yes, now explain to the thread why.
WHY can it be called "synthetic" in the USA?
Still not synthetic by world standards. PAO is god tier. Sperg more retard.
You still haven't explained how y'all lost that suit.
Not sperging here, just tired of shills being autistic about "muh PAO" without any explination.
>additive package
It's not the additive package, it's that the only advantage to "synthetics" for automotive oil is the complete lack of paraffin, which means you don't need as many viscosity modifiers to make the labled viscosity.
>. A 0w16 has to be a "full synthetic
> additive package
Paraffin-free dino oil can make 0w15 without viscosity modifiers at all, as it's the paraffin that is responsible for much of oil's thickining when it gets cold.
Castrol won the right to call it's oil "Synthetic" in court because it proved that the only figure of merit for synthetic motor oil was lack of paraffin.
Why not start by stacking decane into balls of pao? I just like it because it never came from the under the ground neither did much of the e85 I use. My car still feels new but I believe you can just do that by maintenance.
If I only e=mc cared that shit has sand and oxygen in it that makes your engine rust varnish and wear out over time.
yeah, super tech is good oil at a good price.
Step aside.
>inb4 someone posts the superior 5w-30 which is labeled "diesel only" now but the formula never changed and it's the same formula as when it was labeled for both gas & diesel
Doesn't make it anyless trash btw.
they lowered the Zinc in T6, so it's not nearly as good.
>half the wear protection of leading oils
I'll stick to my QSFS 5W30
very nice, HOWEVER
Let's see Paul Alan's oil
Based Kirkland user.
Run that shit in my daily and lab reports have started coming back cleaner than when I was using pennz. Cheap while still maintaining quality is important to me since I'm averaging 30-40k miles a year and change every 5k.
>30-40k miles a year
Goddamn what the fuck
Job requires driving to sites all over the state. They decline to give company cars so we get paid mileage from when we roll out of the garage to the site and then back again or to a hotel depending on how far I went that day.
I get great fuel economy and she runs on the corn liquor so about 2/3 of the mileage money goes into an account for the car's eventual replacement. I siphon a little off of it every now and then to stock up on maintenance stuff like oil and filters.
American things. I'm going to hit 30,000 miles this month, and I only got the car September 30th last year.
I wish it could take Walmart oil. Thankfully my girlfriend's Hyundai Kona can use it.
I change around 7.5K yet my oil life indicator is usually still 50%+ life remaining
Unironically this has been the best oil I've run in my Crown Vic; and I've run Motorcraft, Valvoline, and Penzoil in it
I just get whats on sale for my vehicle, so last time I got a bunch of motul motorcycle oil for my motorcycles on auction.
I don't drive the cars much unless I have to.
It doesn't matter what oil you use. Most cars die of crashes, rust, head gasket failure, or other mechanical or electrical failure unrelated to oil.
idk mang.
the IdoCars israelitetube channel always seems to have engines that died from oil issues.
I feel like someone who recycles cars for a living gets a good feel for why most engines fail.
and it's oil 9 times out of 10.
Yeah that oil was not being changed every 15k miles.
Neglecting to change oil at regular intervals or letting it run out of oil is very different from just using a cheaper brand of oil with a marginally different addative package.
It matters but only if you keep oil of a somewhat correct type in the vehicle.
Never had a
>crash, rust, head gasket issue
Have had some oil related lifter issues and phaser issues(yeah ford modulars).
Thinking about putting 10w30 in my 5.4 3v.
I am selling mine but putting 5w30(instead of 5w20 on the cap) helped a ton with idle clatter when hot. I could see running 10w-30 as well.
I've definitely had oil related issues on my cars.
One seized because of shit oil, one started burning oil and one spun bearings because of shit oil.
What oil, car and when?
Renault 25 - Cheapest shit I could find, engine seized on a highway drive
Ford Sierra - Rebuilt engine, cheapest oil I could find that had "proper specifications", 2 weeks and 3000km in and back to blue smoke
Volvo 850 T5 - Meguin Oil (Bought out by Liqui Moly), oil changes every 7k km, one day heard slight tapping coming from the engine. Tore apart the bottom end.
First one is really the only plausibly legit case
>rebuilt engine
well there’s your problem
>T5
Had one of those, they’re not long for this world.
amsoil is based oil.
but it's full synthetic, it can't be based on anything
>n-decane
>inb4 whats the N for
>N
>i
>g
>g
>e
>r
For me, its
1. Supertech
2. Quaker
3. Castrol
>for poorfags edition
For me its
Redline
Amsoil
Motul
Simple as.
In my personal experience amsoil has up to 3x the wear protection than mobil1 with 2k-3k more miles.
Mineral oil oxidized quicker than a 100% PAO oil.
>4 year difference between tests
seems like mobil 1 cleaned up your engine real good.
Used amsoil for that time. Used it for almost 9 years now.
>used amsoil for 9 years on a ford focus
damn, you paid what your car's worth in engine oil alone.
Very funny. Are you even trying to make it 750k miles?
>he doesn't have a hookup/store that undercuts everyone else in oil prices
cheap amsoil baby switching to mobil 1 would save me $10 a year.
every internet engine oil debate ever
>i only use amsoil's finest PAO ester and change it every 3000 miles, my engine has been running like a top for the past 20 years
>i just use whatever's on sale at walmart. been doing it for the past 20 years and so far the car hasn't complained about it
go figure.
Post cylinder walls
dunno what oil previous owner used
Blackstone has said the same thing as well, they're like "I dunno, use whatever, we haven't seen a difference"
Use synthetic at roughly the recommended weight, unless it's like bootleg Chinese horse hooves or something it'll be fine.
Modern engines with modern synthetic oils are virtually never the cause of failure as long as the oil is changed at least every 10,000 miles or so. Every engine failure I see is caused by some combination of problems that leads to overheating, something left in the engine after servicing, oil literally never changed, coolant/brake fluid poured into the oil fill (i.e. retards), or something along those lines.
Now what *does* kill engines is retarded homosexuals ragging on them when cold, not letting them cool down with slow driving before shutting them off, sustaining high revvs for no reason, burnouts, donuts, towing oversized loads, etc. If you beat on your engine nonstop it doesn't matter what oil you use or how often you change it, it will have a short life.
>retarded homosexuals ragging on them when cold
cringed hard when one of the sales guys at work revved his camry's engine to 5k rpm immediately after it turned over. when it went back to idle it sounded like a diesel lmao
There’s some guy by the name of 540 that has a big Chevy block he does tests on and I think he’s really into some reading about the pressure/breakdown of the oil due to heat. He was really into putting 5w-30 over other viscosities although that sounds risky when a lot of engines are supposedly made for these thinner 0w-20 and 5w-20 oils
Quaker state seemed to be the brand name that was still cheap but best bang for buck when Walmart has it under $25 a jug regularly. All other names seemed to do well with the obvious amsoil and a few others coming in top. It was also the product line that was just ‘full synthetic’ I believe and not their marketed gold label ultimate whatever they call it
Supertech still rated within his good scale which was above average and then mediocre or dangerous. Typically in warmer environments the oils would rate a level lower so it was still acceptable which is well known anyways with people using it for years. Just not something to really bang out high rev engines to ideally
TLDR Quaker state and valvoline are brand names that are worth the extra $5 versus Walmart oil if you had to get something arguably better
I need amsoil for 5w20 and my application 7k everyday.
It’s a great oil and I think they’re 0w-20 rated in his top 10 out of hundreds of tests just probably not worth the cost for light drivers in general but nothing wrong too. A lot of old shit boxes need short intervals so running through supertech is probably wiser
>He was really into putting 5w-30 over other viscosities although that sounds risky when a lot of engines are supposedly made for these thinner 0w-20 and 5w-20 oils
I'm almost 100% convinced that's due to US emissions standards bs. My 4runner calls for 0w20 in the US but in every other market the engine is sold in it can use anything from 0w20 to 20w50 based on ambient Temps. This is all according to the user manuals in different countries.
I ran into oil starvation issues running Supertech on a car with only 70,000 miles (over 20 years). Had to use Seafoam to clean it out.
How does a car that's had multiple synthetic oil changes in 70k miles sludge up?
>poors larping mineral is a synthetic
Meanwhile in aviation
>only synthetic for jets
>polyphenol ether for sr71 black bird
If true 100% synthetics is what keeps a jet alive in alaska and miami I want that shit in my car. Just because your additive package is a full synthetic doesn't mean the base oil is too.
Most modern cars now come from the factory with synthetic oil and low tension piston rings. A 0w16 has to be a "full synthetic" the additive package is now what keeps engines alive.
This is how our society works.
People think that companies all make their shit in house but that's not the case. Its easier and much quicker to get your product out there if you just outsource the manufacturing of your product to someone else.
These companies specialize in making specific types of products and all the big brands will come to them. Then, once those companies get recipe for something (oil, for this instance) they can make the exact same product as the fancy brands like Mobil 1. Off brands and companies like Walmart and Amazon know this and decide to buy that same oil from the 3rd party manufacturer and use it for themselves under their own label.
IT happens all the time across different industries. Take those homosexuals Ben and Jerry. They just outsource their ice cream to be made across the country and grocery stores will buy from the 3rd party manufacturer the exact same recipe and just slap their name on it but sell it cheaper.
My 2azfe sounds like shit on Supertech.
It runs smooth like a v6 on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum/Platinum. Pennzoil is the best oil out there.
>5w30
For me it's:
Motul
Liqui Moly
Fuchs
t. East European
I use motul and redline