314 thoughts on “I am being priced out of quality denim

      • Anonymous says:

        friend i am a real blue collar worker and i’m laughing at you right now.
        jeans haven’t been hard associated with blue collar workers for over 60 years. early rock and roll, bikers, hippies, and all kinds of social classes adopted denim. the kinds of jeans you buy at the store today aren’t even that similar to the kind pre-war workers used to wear. most jeans today are more derivative of the styles of the 1950s and 1960s from an era where jeans were meant to be stand alone pants and were designed for style, not worn over other pants and not designed strictly for function like pre-war examples.

          • Anonymous says:

            most normies don’t even know denim came from gold miners and pioneers and railworkers. its far more culturally associated with shit like elvis, marlin brando, rock and roll, punks, bikers, hippies, beakniks, etc.

          • Anonymous says:

            You’re not right on anything, sweatie. Where do you people even come from? Denim hasn’t been associated with work wear since at least the 50’s. The vast majority of the world wears jeans today, even in starving African shitholes, without even realizing that denim was historically a work wear. And it’s so popular because denim simply gives you that bang for your buck no other fabric provides.

            You can buy a pair of jeans, even the cheap ones, and they will last you for at least a couple of years, no matter how roughly you use them. You can wear them and do whatever kind of rough activities that you want without worrying about staining them (because they won’t be easily visible on it), or snagging them onto something and ripping them like in the case of other fabrics that are really flimsy in comparison, let alone regularly ironing them (or at all).

            Denim is the lowest maintenance fabric, so you can throw a pair of jeans on and not worry about even washing them for several wears. And not to mention, unlike other fabrics, denim doesn’t look like shit when it starts fading. If anything, the fades give character and your individuality to it, all the while becoming more and more comfortable as time passes, since it molds to your body’s shape.

          • Anonymous says:

            https://i.imgur.com/1rbaMYx.jpeg

            friend i am a real blue collar worker and i’m laughing at you right now.
            jeans haven’t been hard associated with blue collar workers for over 60 years. early rock and roll, bikers, hippies, and all kinds of social classes adopted denim. the kinds of jeans you buy at the store today aren’t even that similar to the kind pre-war workers used to wear. most jeans today are more derivative of the styles of the 1950s and 1960s from an era where jeans were meant to be stand alone pants and were designed for style, not worn over other pants and not designed strictly for function like pre-war examples.

            take it to a publisher

        • Anonymous says:

          https://i.imgur.com/nESVytZ.jpeg

          You’re not right on anything, sweatie. Where do you people even come from? Denim hasn’t been associated with work wear since at least the 50’s. The vast majority of the world wears jeans today, even in starving African shitholes, without even realizing that denim was historically a work wear. And it’s so popular because denim simply gives you that bang for your buck no other fabric provides.

          You can buy a pair of jeans, even the cheap ones, and they will last you for at least a couple of years, no matter how roughly you use them. You can wear them and do whatever kind of rough activities that you want without worrying about staining them (because they won’t be easily visible on it), or snagging them onto something and ripping them like in the case of other fabrics that are really flimsy in comparison, let alone regularly ironing them (or at all).

          Denim is the lowest maintenance fabric, so you can throw a pair of jeans on and not worry about even washing them for several wears. And not to mention, unlike other fabrics, denim doesn’t look like shit when it starts fading. If anything, the fades give character and your individuality to it, all the while becoming more and more comfortable as time passes, since it molds to your body’s shape.

          Are you a miner from the 1870s or are you a dumb zoomer? Wearing denim is decades beyond "blue collar larp"

          t. Starbucks employee

          • Anonymous says:

            i quit the only white collar job i had (aaa game studio) because it was full of danger hairs and literal actual cuckolds trying to get me, a manlet, to heck their wives/gfs.

          • Anonymous says:

            Are you black? Those kinds of people worship you guys..

            What video game did you work on?

          • Anonymous says:

            the name of the company is towards the end of the alphabet, and people online think they’re "based" so it’ll be the last one you expect.

            What’s the cons of raw denim with stretch? I see there’s 13mwz in both

            it blows out and tears more easily, and it doesn’t survive as many washings as regular denim.
            it drapes differently and doesn’t hold its shape as much. depending on the fit you’re going for this can be a pro or a con.
            fades might be a little lower contrast but people regularly achieve high contrast fades on stretch denim. i don’t think it affects the fades very much on skinny cuts but it can on looser cuts. this isn’t necessarily a pro or a con, personal preference.
            picrel some uniqlo stretch denim fades with intense contrast.

          • Anonymous says:

            it kinda goes both ways. tears more easily but stress points form a lot less easily. you tend to see knee blowouts and front pocket phone blowouts on stretch denim more often and crotch blowouts less.

          • Anonymous says:

            >the name of the company is towards the end of the alphabet, and people online think they’re "based" so it’ll be the last one you expect.
            Warhorse Studios I guess, Czechians are a weird bunch

      • Anonymous says:

        Are you a miner from the 1870s or are you a dumb zoomer? Wearing denim is decades beyond "blue collar larp"

      • Anonymous says:

        This

        >incels
        "Psssh, Levis? Their quality is awful. I only wear handpicked japanese cotton folded 60000 times which has the highest durability and is used by masters all over the globe"
        >actual blue collar guy
        "20 dollar walmart jeans? Sure, I’ll wear them for 14 years until they literally fall apart."

        • Anonymous says:

          you are a poser and i can tell from your post.
          or maybe a european LARPing like you know what you’re talking about.
          i do residential and commercial remodel and some new construction. i have never seen anyone wearing levi’s they’re known to be low quality and overpriced fashion jeans. they don’t even sell them at workwear stores. if you actually knew what you were talking about you’d know carhartt double knees and wrangler jeans and rustlers are the most common.
          google "sears catalog denim 1920" then use an inflation calculator.
          coal miners and factory workers during the great depression used to pay $100 minimum up to about $500 for jeans in today’s money. keep in mind official inflation numbers are undershot.
          the main reason you don’t see construction workers wearing selvedge:
          – its mostly cut for style not doing labor in
          – its not sold in the brick/mortar stores laborers shop in
          generally laborers who aren’t total greenhorns buy the highest quality stuff locally available to them. if selvedge jeans in a loose working man’s type cut was at the western supply/workwear supply store or wherever they shop they’d probably wear them. i can’t tell you how many guys ask about my jeans then wind up going online and buying some the second they find out higher quality jeans exist than the stuff at the store.

          • Anonymous says:

            Not him but I agree with everything except I have seen some laborers wearing Levi occasionally. Mostly Carhart duck though or some cheap jeans. Sort of depends on the trade.

            I kind of asked this above but is there something similarly priced to wrangler but not the western cut? At least like sub 80 dollars at the most. I want some raw denim for my construction job but I don’t like the how the wranglers show off my ass. Not hating just don’t like the style personally. I tried 501 stf but they were too restricting of my mobility.

          • Anonymous says:

            there’s a ton of brands selling jeans in the 50-200 range, usually made in usa, made out of that exact same mt vernon mills broken twill denim out there. too many to name. check out roundhouse see if that does it for you.
            uniqlo used to sell a solid selvedge straight cut that would go on sale for 30 all the time but alas no more.
            if i was still doing construction (bad back) i would probably spring the 150 for something really wide cut like tcb 20’s or evisu 2001’s its worth the extra cost for the comfort to me. i used to rotate evisus, a pair of wranglers, and a pair of rustlers for my denim then i had some canvas/duck pants too. waxed canvas is nice for exterior jobs in winter.

          • Anonymous says:

            […]

            Seems pretty pricey but if it’s worth it and they’ll last I guess i can go for it. The problem I have is that I’m a drywaller. I hang and tape so I’m either covered in mud or dust or both. Is weekly washing even worth going raw at that point? I mean a week is the most I could do. Maybe every 3 days honestly. Would I even get decent fades with that? Or maybe it’s still just worth wearing nice jeans. I spend most my time working so it seems dumb to just wear shitty cheap stretch jeans if I can find comfortable raws I guess.

          • Anonymous says:

            >Is weekly washing even worth going raw at that point?
            yeah if you wear them hard but wash a lot you still get good fading out of them. google image search "raw denim vintage fades" for examples. the first 1-3 washes are the most important so if you hold off a little extra on them you’ll get more contrast. but you don’t need to. hard worn jeans will eventually look hard worn.
            personally i lived by the swissjeansfreak approach of just letting them be covered in concrete and drywall dust all the time. then when i retire the jeans from work i wash them a few times until they’re clean. produces insane fades. just kind of annoying to have to keep track of if i can wear my dirty jeans that day or if i should wear a clean pair (interior jobs etc)
            >Seems pretty pricey
            some of them like the one i recced (roundhouse) are like 45-50bux pretty reasonable for the quality and being made in usa.

          • Anonymous says:

            Thanks for the info. I’ll check out the roundhouse I assumed they were more money.

            My experience with the 13mwz is that they give me an insane hip mobility like no other pair of jeans I’ve had. I don’t really know why, but it’s close to not wearing anything and I wear them tight around the waist and ass. Most jeans will have some sort of resistance when flexing at the hips past some point, but not the 13mwz. Might be a just me thing but wanted to share.

            Nah thanks for sharing. I’ll snag a pair. I got a local place that sells them so it’s not a big deal to try on. I guess I can get over the look if the mobility is good. Honestly drywall probably requires the most mobility of any trade or at least on par for the most. So this is a good selling point to me. Might try the 31mwz too my thighs are thicccc. I need to take some legit measurements at this point. I think part of the reason I’m having issues is my thighs are larger than most peoples. Weird genetics I guess. Wish my upper body grew like my lower but it doesn’t.

          • Anonymous says:

            measuring the thigh’s easy to do yourself without help definitely do so if its a problem area for fit. finding the jeans with the right waist to thigh ratio can be hard for guys with big legs or guys who lift a lot.
            might be too pricy for work jeans but these ones are going to be realllly roomy in the thigh. all 3 can be had for like 150-180 bucks on rakuten/yahoo auc/buyee/etc. first two have the roomiest thighs. and you can size up on the waist to get even more thigh room with the 2nd ones because they have a back cinch.
            https://hinoya.shop/en/products/2001-no2
            https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/tcb-20s-jeans-one-wash
            https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/pre-order-s40s-jeans-contest-ver-delivery-mid-august

          • Anonymous says:

            I have disproportionately big quads, even before I started lifting, my quads and ass were ridiculously big, to the point that peoole used to ask me if I played soccer.
            I have no problem fitting in 13mwzs, but had to give up on 936dens. I’m guessing you’d have to be built like Tom Platz to require the 31mwzs, but sure, try them both if you can and see for yourself.
            Again, I don’t know exactly what makes the 13mwzs so comfy at the box and hip, but for me they can’t be beat in that regard.

          • Anonymous says:

            My experience with the 13mwz is that they give me an insane hip mobility like no other pair of jeans I’ve had. I don’t really know why, but it’s close to not wearing anything and I wear them tight around the waist and ass. Most jeans will have some sort of resistance when flexing at the hips past some point, but not the 13mwz. Might be a just me thing but wanted to share.

    • Anonymous says:

      shartmart sells pretty good jeans that’s not really an insult.
      wrangler cowboy cuts are an un changed 1940s era reproduction cut and the fabric’s from an actual respectable mill (mt vernon mills) and isn’t out of place when you see the same fabric used on $200 mitusa jeans. its kinda crazy they’re 30 bucks and sold at walmart.
      and they sell rustlers which are also based as shit. walmart will even sell you the raw ones if you order online for in store pickup.
      walmart or tractor supply probably un ironically has the best denim of any store in your area if you don’t live around a major city with a store like self edge.

      • Anonymous says:

        I’ve recently taken the wranglerpill after getting tired of levis getting more and more expensive. paid $22 for a pair last week. athletic fit are my go-tos.

      • Anonymous says:

        Im a Rustler truther now. These are the real workwear jeans that designer companies fetishize with the 200 dollar tranny jeans they sell

        • Anonymous says:

          they’re 350 because you get hebrewed by iron heart global and hebrewed double by tariffs. they’re like 180 bucks in japan.
          […]
          […]
          wrangler/rustler are the best jeans if you don’t want to spend 150 bucks. probably lee selvedge for europeanfags.
          uniqlo used to heck really hard but they stopped selling their straight cut and slim straight cut outside of asia. if they ever bring it back it owns.
          there’s some really good autism options for around 50 a pair too. china brands like sauce zhan and red tornado are shockingly nice (and use uyghur forced labor cotton based.) and you can get indonesian shit often made with .jp selvedge in that price range too. the problem with indonesians is the shipping is crazy high so you have to buy a few things at once & most of them don’t have websites they make you pay on whatsapp and sketchy bullshit.
          […]
          the only guy posting it and even claiming to do it won’t even post what he does (in multiple threads) meaning he’s some first year on the job ditch digger or something. whO cares? mazda go zoom zoom!

          Thanks guys, I just took the Rustler pill. 16.99 for raw denim, will be delivered on Friday. I’ve got a pair of Sugarcane 1947s that I don’t wear too hard since I actually like how they look without fades and a pair of regular Wrangler raws that are my beater pair, I’m interested to see how these compare.

          • Anonymous says:

            i still haven’t done an indigo pair (pic stolen from reddit) but my dad started a pair the second he found out they still exist, he wore them all through the 80s and thought they got discontinued. if you like your wranglers you will be hard pressed not to like them. they start off darker like the sugar canes so you can get pretty high contrast out of them.
            rinsed black ones have been my go to black jeans since i stumbled on them at shartmart as a kiddo. love the uber simplified details on rustlers, the fit, the fabric, and the cost. 3 washes in they get so soft.

  1. Anonymous says:

    Quality denim, another spectacular personality accessory to go along my wet shaving and warhammer painting hobby!

  2. Anonymous says:

    Why are there so many denim hating trannies in this thread? Is it because wearing denim made for real men will make it unambiguously clear that they WNBAW?

    • Anonymous says:

      You’re making a big deal about something that was historically thick ruggedized workwear and you decide to look down on people who buy jeans that aren’t of a certain thickness even though you dont do anything blue collar to warrant such expensive ass jeans.
      Thick ass work jeans have always been hecking expensive, they’re still sold today and their prices reflect the cost of materials.

      • Anonymous says:

        >thickness
        historically jeans were like 6-12oz and stuff like iron hearts were impossible to make for technical but mostly operator skill limitations of the time. reproduction old timey coal miner jeans aren’t very thick unless the brand’s taking creative liberty by using a heavier fabric.
        >even though you dont do anything blue collar to warrant
        why do spergs post this shit every time someone makes a thread about denim? you’re a soft-palmed computer dork in your early 20’s. that doesn’t mean everyone else is. its an anonymous global basket weaving community.

          • Anonymous says:

            >Do you understand what a poser is?
            yes.
            you are projecting that you would feel like a poser wearing jeans because you’re white collar, soft, and highly urbanized. that’s a personal problem.

            Isn’t denim extremely uncomfortable?

            depends. denim is just a twill weave pattern. all kinds of fabrics with all kinds of qualities can be made from it.
            there’s brands like fullcount and tcb where their jeans feel like a soft pair of sweatpants right when you get them.
            and there’s brands like samurai and iron heart etc where the jeans start off kind of stiff and uncomfortable due to all the starches in the denim. after a few runs in the washing machine they go away and become soft. wearing them in the raw, starchy, less comfortable state makes the jeans permanently shape to your body so in the long run they actually wind up becoming some of the most comfortable pants in your wardrobe.

          • Anonymous says:

            >wearing them in the raw, starchy, less comfortable state makes the jeans permanently shape to your body

            Yeah, and you get blue dye all over everything they touch.

          • Anonymous says:

            This really is not as bad as people make it. If you give your new jeans an initial rinse, it gets a huge amount of the indigo bleed out. Wash them another two times over a month of consistent wear and the indigo bleed pretty much is nonexistent

          • Anonymous says:

            don’t wear white sneakers or buy a car with a gaygy white interior, problem solved.

            This really is not as bad as people make it. If you give your new jeans an initial rinse, it gets a huge amount of the indigo bleed out. Wash them another two times over a month of consistent wear and the indigo bleed pretty much is nonexistent

            there are some shits out there that do bleed that bad. i have a pair from uniqlo that’s 6 washes in and still turns my hands blue when i touch my legs.

            >uniqlo used to heck really hard but they stopped selling their straight cut and slim straight cut outside of asia. if they ever bring it back it owns.
            The straight cut selvedge that’s 100% cotton disappeared from the stores and the web page, but the slim straight selvedge which has a 2% of elasthane is still available.

            oh weird the straight and the slim disappeared for me for a while, and the page only showed the skinny cut. now the skinny cut’s gone and they appear to only sell the slim cut. FWIW their slim cut is really good.

  3. Anonymous says:

    lmao
    i work in construction and wear basic jeans from any store
    watching soi spending hundreds on jeans always makes me laugh

    • Anonymous says:

      i remodel houses and wear selvedge. so what?
      what makes me laugh is when i get a green horn who’s wearing those $150-250 cheap glued construction work boots made for union boot allowance stipends. hecking KEK tier when you see some newbie spending their own hard earned money on that shit instead of a pair of red wings or something.

      • Anonymous says:

        What do you wear? Also a construction gay. 501s seemed way too constrictive I couldn’t handle wearing them.

        • Anonymous says:

          >did
          i fibbed i’m neeting and trying to decide on something a bit easier on my spine to pivot to kek
          things i look for in a good pair of work jeans is: 12-15ish oz fabric jeans with a back cinch in wide legged ~1920-30’s repro cuts. during this era and anything earlier jeans had a back cinch which lets you size up 1-2 sizes. jeans were overalls back then — they’re wide leg so you can wear them over other pants like chinos or something if you want to. i prefer mid weight denim to heavy weight because heavy denim isn’t as good for abrasion and you’re gonna be abrading your jeans a lot doing construction. if they catch a nail or something that sucks, get the sashiko thread and denim patches out. faithful or modified interpretations of repro jeans are fine just anything thats mid/high rise and very wide legged. how tapered the upper block you want is up to you, theres years with different fits. if you want a high rise get a straight up repro cut. i preferred wearing a mid rise and my toolbelt higher on my waist personally whatevers comfy for you.
          if you don’t wear a toolbelt overalls are based as shit too.
          my fave jeans were some evisus i bought 06-07ish. modified 30’s repro cut with the main differences being a mid rise and extra large rear pockets, 12oz non selvedge fabric, bombproof.
          something like fullcount 0105 15oz would be a solid contender for a high rise enjoyer. zimbabwe cotton is strong in my experience. legs are huge on those. only downside to them is no back cinch.
          i also really liked having a lighter ~10oz pair for roofs and outdoor summer jobs. repro denim is readily available in light weights bc thats historically accurate.
          if you need max protectiveness/knee thigh durability at all cost go for double knee ducks not denim. denims the best all rounder and more comfy to wear.

        • Anonymous says:

          here’s an even more in depth answer that requires basically no reading
          here’s a youtube channel that is basically levi’s chan a comprehensive history

          or go to ‘den in denim’ then playlists –> 501 history
          go to this 501 history playlist and watch the relevant sections of the years around that era maybe a bit before or after whatever tickles your pickle and learn about the different repro cuts you can choose from, from when jeans were actually designed to be worked in not for looks. i think they looked cooler too but that’s just me.
          youtube guy is only going to cover levi’s branded products for the most part in the videos. jap brands make this stuff too readily. imo better quality and price ratio and often more historically accurate than levi’s/lvc themself.
          its also key to learn how to repair jeans. get a sewing machine or sashiko stuff or both. learning curve isnt huge for most ways of repairing jeans. just machine darning which isn’t necessary for work jeans.

        • Anonymous says:

          carpenter here
          i go between wrangler 13mwz jeans and carhartt double fronts. on days when i’m wearing a full tool belt i usually put the wranglers on because they’re worn in and comfy but on days when i’m not going to be wearing a tool belt as much like if we’re pouring concrete or doing trim i’ll wear the carhartts because they have good pockets so i can put basic shit like a pencil, knife, etc in them

          501s have always ripped super quick for me

          • Anonymous says:

            Thanks man I’ll snag some mwz. Seems like everyone here likes them regardless of profession anyways and they’re cheap so it’s worth a try. And I wear bags 90 percent of the time.

          • Anonymous says:

            nothing beats wrangler cowboy cut/rustler on price to durability ratio for labor if you live in america. the only (objective, practical) reason to get more expensive jap jeans for doing labor in is if you want a wider fit than wrangler offers.

          • Anonymous says:

            evisu no.1/2 lot 2001 or momotaro 0905sp

            It’s more the broken twill that I’m after than anything. 13MWZ are my best fitting and most comfortable jeans in large part due to the fabric. But I hate the blueberry phase.

            Actually heck it I’m grabbing some rit dye and ODing my Wranglers. Might be dope. Might be absolute trash. Either way I’m only out $30

            lee repro is often in broken twill. they have the same small and high rear pocket type fit as wranglers too. as are a lot of 11mw repros even though it wouldn’t be the period correct fabric on it. note there’s no secret special sauce to a $200 pair of japanese broken twill jeans they’re usually trying to emulate the original fabric that wrangler & lee used to use which is coincidentally the same fabric your $30 wranglers are made of still to this day (its rather nice)
            if you like the fabric and you like ih’s cuts i’d say go for it. they look vnice. i’d personally go for leepro or maybe even 11mw repro but that’s just cause i already have a lot of jeans that fit like ih’s offerings and not as much repro.

          • Anonymous says:

            try out rustlers next time you’re at walmart. same fit as the cowboy cuts in a 15oz right hand twill fabric. under 15 bux. the fabric’s a little more rugged than 13mwz imo but less soft.

          • Anonymous says:

            Alright thanks man, the wranglers arent too expensive anyway but for $15 i’ll try em

    • Anonymous says:

      Ok? I work a real job in an office and I have enough sense to know that people spending money on things is good for the economy. Who gives a shit?

    • Anonymous says:

      japanese denim brands don’t use any components labor or raw materials from china, and are significantly more transparent about their materials sourcing than most garment makers even on the ultra high end luxury side of the market. when you buy a pair of japanese jeans its typical for the thread to be woven, the cotton grown and milled, the rivets made, etc all in a first world country. usually with the exact place they came from named.
      if you want to avoid chink trash getting into jap denim and repro clothing is one of the best ways to go, as long as you can afford it.

    • Anonymous says:

      i designed selvedge jeans for a well known and respected american brand and did all the materials sourcing a while ago. the markup on american and japanese selvedge is like 25%-50% on average which is some of the lowest by percent in the entire garment industry. there’s some additional markup with japanese stuff due to importing fees and regulations but it can be largely avoided by using rakuten or visiting japan. some jap brands like iron heart, 45rpm etc also artificially moron their prices for the global market and are way cheaper in japan.

      • Anonymous says:

        >45rpm
        That sucks. I really badly want to try 45rpm and maybe I will someday, but I would have already bought something if not for their insane international pricing.

        Cottle is the exact same way. Incredible, amazing quality. And they charge you about 50% more for everything if you live outside Japan.

        • Anonymous says:

          iron heart and a few other brands ban their shit from being sold on rakuten.
          rakuten’s global website shut down a few years ago but the japan website has international mail forwarding now.

  4. Anonymous says:

    Ill be honest. I have 888s and while the quality is definitely better. I still think my modern 501s are more comfy and have a nicer fit, I wear them just as equally.

  5. Anonymous says:

    Whenever an Iron Heart thread is made, there’s always some demand that people reasonably justify spending $350 for jeans. Don’t try and justify it by saying
    >oh I’m a blue collar worker so I’m allowed to wear 21 oz jeans
    All clothing gets destroyed eventually. Wearing 21 oz Iron hearts are not going to prevent blowouts, you will still eventually get them. You should instead just be saying
    >oh, I wear iron hearts because they are sick and very comfortable
    I’m literally wearing my 21 oz 888 jeans as I speak. I’m not dogging iron heart fanboys either. They’re hecking awesome jeans despite what haters will say

    • Anonymous says:

      they’re 350 because you get hebrewed by iron heart global and hebrewed double by tariffs. they’re like 180 bucks in japan.

      I’ve recently taken the wranglerpill after getting tired of levis getting more and more expensive. paid $22 for a pair last week. athletic fit are my go-tos.

      https://i.imgur.com/ooZIoY7.jpeg

      Im a Rustler truther now. These are the real workwear jeans that designer companies fetishize with the 200 dollar tranny jeans they sell

      wrangler/rustler are the best jeans if you don’t want to spend 150 bucks. probably lee selvedge for europeanfags.
      uniqlo used to heck really hard but they stopped selling their straight cut and slim straight cut outside of asia. if they ever bring it back it owns.
      there’s some really good autism options for around 50 a pair too. china brands like sauce zhan and red tornado are shockingly nice (and use uyghur forced labor cotton based.) and you can get indonesian shit often made with .jp selvedge in that price range too. the problem with indonesians is the shipping is crazy high so you have to buy a few things at once & most of them don’t have websites they make you pay on whatsapp and sketchy bullshit.

      https://i.imgur.com/ibzFT3j.jpeg

      You guys can’t be serious with that “only construction workers with blue collar jobs can wear jeans” bullshit. I guess only scuba divers can wear a Submariner, and your probably larping if your not on the job site while wearing your Redwing boots.

      the only guy posting it and even claiming to do it won’t even post what he does (in multiple threads) meaning he’s some first year on the job ditch digger or something. whO cares? mazda go zoom zoom!

      • Anonymous says:

        >uniqlo used to heck really hard but they stopped selling their straight cut and slim straight cut outside of asia. if they ever bring it back it owns.
        The straight cut selvedge that’s 100% cotton disappeared from the stores and the web page, but the slim straight selvedge which has a 2% of elasthane is still available.

      • Anonymous says:

        That’s it, since the lack of rustler and wrangler in my country i’ll take the chinapill
        I’ll order a red tornado pair and i’ll update in the next inevitable thread about denim

  6. Anonymous says:

    Is there a reason to get thick ass Iron Heart denim? I feel like 15/16oz is thick enough, these guys go past 20oz. Is it just for the thickness and durability? I have a 12 year old pair of 13oz Naked and Famous jeans that last fine.

    • Anonymous says:

      It’s not necessarily going to give you any more durability, they’re just as prone to blowouts as any light to mid weight denim. I like their 21 oz because it’s VERY easy to break in, and it’s unfathomably comfortable. Heavy, but not too heavy, and it’s insanely soft

      • Anonymous says:

        I’m not sure if this is true or not, but I’ve heard the heavier weight ones can actually blow out more easily because the fibers are thicker which means more abrasion surface for each one. Could easily be reddit bullshit though.

    • Anonymous says:

      main reasons to like 21oz is: it fades very well, 21oz fabrics tend to be really comfy after a few washes when the starch gets removed and the fibers soften up, and its probably the best weight for if you want to wear 1 pair of jeans year round and live in a northern climate.

      12-15oz is probably the most durable denim. historically that’s where the denim weight arms race ended with levi’s settling on 12.5oz and wrangler on 15.25oz. until that point heavier was objectively seen as better.
      the thinner you go the easier it rips. the thicker you go the easier it abrades because the yarns are larger. if you’re a hyper sperg you might know that yarn sizes vary on arrangement and aren’t perfectly correlated to the weight i’m keeping things simple.

      for me: i see my ~10oz and less jeans, my ~15oz jeans and my ~21oz and higher jeans as totally different categories, i don’t really compare them to each other because i don’t wear them the same time of year. i’ve been into japanese denim since like 2005 so i have a lot of shit.

      • Anonymous says:

        I don’t understand why all skinny guys just don’t wear Levi’s repro straight cuts like this guy. The fit is superb and looks a million times better than wearing a slim cut

      • Anonymous says:

        This is a top 5 worst fit I’ve ever seen.

        https://i.imgur.com/XntvpTm.jpeg

        Its literally just one indian guy on this board who has to retaliate against any discussion of selvedge denim. His usual attacks are:
        >le blue collar larp
        >women don’t care about your expensive jeans
        >these jeans are overpriced
        >imagine forming your personality around jeans
        Kind of insane to think that someone actually is bothered that people legitimately just enjoy the experience of wearing in raw denim. Every guy will reach a point at which he starts spending more money on his interests/hobbies

        There are people like this on the watch forums too, "better not be wearing that GMT if you’re not at least a part time pilot".

      • Anonymous says:

        You’re stupid. They’re 21 oz is not even remotely cardboardy even when new, and it softens up like crazy over time

  7. Anonymous says:

    You guys can’t be serious with that “only construction workers with blue collar jobs can wear jeans” bullshit. I guess only scuba divers can wear a Submariner, and your probably larping if your not on the job site while wearing your Redwing boots.

  8. Anonymous says:

    Remember back in the good old days of 2012 when we could have raw denim threads without these eternal summer entryists ruining everything?

    • Anonymous says:

      Yeah I remember. I remember when all the interest boards were good more or less. That shit changed the course of my life.

  9. Anonymous says:

    What are some good quality japanese denim brands like IH but that don’t charge you the gaijin tax then?

    • Anonymous says:

      >like ih
      samurais
      >not like ih, but quality and japanese and doesn’t tax you
      tcb
      >not japanese
      some of the indonesian brands like sage do nice 21oz shit. a lot of them use jap fabric. shipping’s always really high so buying 1 pair’s never worth but they’re dealz if you get a few things.
      naked & famous elephant is usually really good every season, too.

    • Anonymous says:

      If you like the clean aesthetic of IH’s heavy weight, even weave pattern, check out SoSo or Bravestar. They aren’t exactly the same aesthetics, but they specialize in clean weave heavy weight denim. These companies use a lot of the same structural features that IH uses to set itself apart from other brands, but at a much lower price. In my opinion, you should just buy the jeans that you think look the best. Any selvedge jeans you buy are already going to be leagues ahead in quality compared to anything that is projectile loomed and mass produced. If you like the looks of iron heart way more than any other jeans, just buy them because you’ll always be wishing you did. If the price is too much for you, consider looking at pairs of IH 634s on eBay. There’s a few Japanese accounts on there that ship new pairs of 634s from Japan for like $270 which is considerably less than what they’re sold for in the US

  10. Anonymous says:

    this thread hecking sucks holy shit are there really people who think denim is worn to fake being blue collar? literally everybody wears denim all year round one way or another

    • Anonymous says:

      Its literally just one indian guy on this board who has to retaliate against any discussion of selvedge denim. His usual attacks are:
      >le blue collar larp
      >women don’t care about your expensive jeans
      >these jeans are overpriced
      >imagine forming your personality around jeans
      Kind of insane to think that someone actually is bothered that people legitimately just enjoy the experience of wearing in raw denim. Every guy will reach a point at which he starts spending more money on his interests/hobbies

      • Anonymous says:

        https://i.imgur.com/FtKkLiK.png

        This is a top 5 worst fit I’ve ever seen.

        […]
        There are people like this on the watch forums too, "better not be wearing that GMT if you’re not at least a part time pilot".

        i pull those spergs out of the woodwork when i post fits. i take it as a compliment it just means i look super young for my age.
        >nooo you can’t wear filson you will never be a real logger!!!
        i bought it all before they got bought out, while i was doing forestry shit every weekend, because i needed pants that don’t tear when i’m ripping stumps out of the ground with unpowered hand tools.
        >you’re wearing a denim trucker jacket? a real trucker would RAPE you. <– this is pretty much word for word a waywt reply i got
        but i can rebuild a transmission with my dick hole glued shut lol.
        >wearing blue jeans is blue collar stolen valor
        lil bro i build houses…

  11. Anonymous says:

    >girls don’t care about
    my cool jeans have gotten me 2 long term girlfriends & laid around 10 times that i’m aware of. i’m only counting it if they explicitly have told me that’s why they approached me after the fact.
    rather have some iron sharts than simp at a strip club or pay some hebrew bottle service in a club.

        • Anonymous says:

          Yeah, exactly like that. I just ordered the same jeans last night except I got the standard ones not the high rise which are the ones you need. It looks like you know what you’re doing.

        • Anonymous says:

          I wear the 888 cut. It’s the best. Go for it

          thank you for posting these. been looking for a high rise tapered cut jean in a 31 inch option for absolutely ages. now to wait and see if Iron Heart put out a grey pair- or whether I just buy the black ones and try to fade them out

          • Anonymous says:

            I posted grey jeans, and expressed an interest in grey or black jeans that fade into a grey. But thanks for recommending indigo jeans, I guess.

          • Anonymous says:

            The OD that anon posted start off black with a hint of blue visible in sunlight then fade to a steel blue/grey over time (picrel is ~1.5mo of wear on the jeans in 21oz and a brand new jacket in a 14oz version of the same fabric). If you aren’t a fan, check out Iron Heart’s SBG. It’s black denim designed to fade to grey the same way that indigo jeans fade to light blue/white. Iirc they’re out of stock in most sizes right now but it’s an evergreen fabric for them so they should get more soonish. Indigofera does a similar thing with their gunpowder denim though imo the fades aren’t as nice as IH

    • Anonymous says:

      The best cuff for anybody is either a single small flip, or a skinny double cuff (pic related). Triple cuffing is an absolute no, and thick cuffing makes you look shorter. In summary, get your jeans hemmed so that you can do a small to medium sized single cuff which would be the equivalent of a skinny double cuff

    • Anonymous says:

      repro jeans:
      large single cuff or large double cuff. do not get the jeans hemmed. is what would be historically correct.

      modern jeans:
      small single cuff is the best. at a length that can be worn both cuffed and uncuffed.
      small double cuff is fine too but will stack messier when uncuffed. still wearable.
      i always hem to at least small single cuff length. that’s about how much average jeans will shrink in the inseam in 2-3 washes. eventually they become uncuffed jeans with cool looking cracking lines from where they were previously cuffed.

  12. Anonymous says:

    >own five pieces of Iron Heart
    >still want more even though my car was made in 1995 and is rusting and I live in a studio apartment

    idk what the point of me buying all this nice shit is, if i live just a modest humble lifestyle (which im fine with)

    • Anonymous says:

      >only IH I own is a flannel
      >really want a pair of 634s
      >$10 in my bank account

      it’s gonna be a while until I can buy a pair

    • Anonymous says:

      It feels good to dress good. You see all kinds of nice cars and Gucci in the LA ghettos but those guys are living with roaches and have black mold in their showers and don’t have more than $50 to their names.

    • Anonymous says:

      I always think about how there’s no piece of clothing I can buy that will ever make me happy. I’ve already bought it. I look good. I got /fit/ and /fashion/. I have a girlfriend who loves me way too much. None of that solved the problem though. My life is a hecking joke I feel like just getting addicted to heroin or something and getting high everyday until I die.

      • Anonymous says:

        Sweatie, what you’re missing is kids. Marry your girlfriend, knock her up and have a bunch of children. When you have children it gives meaning and purpose to your life. Not to mention, having children is the ultimate goal of life. That’s all life boils down to: perpetuating life. Everything else you do is in service of that, whether you realize it or not.
        >b-b-b-but muh economy
        The poorest countries have the most children. Live within your means, have little needs, cut down on unnecessary expenses, and you will be fine. Don’t be a slave to money and consoomption.

        • Anonymous says:

          >When you have children it gives meaning and purpose to your life.
          Unironically this. Having kids not only gives meaning to life, but also lots of perspective.
          Sounds like you have most things figured out (stable relationship, enough income to afford nice things), that’s your next step in life.

    • Anonymous says:

      if they’re still dark: totally fine to hem them. maybe soak a paper towel in bleach and rub it on the hem to artificially fade it a little bit to match (that’s how high end prefaded jeans are done)
      if they’re already faded out: DEPENDS. you can do whats called an original hem hemming. this is considered sacrilege to some people. your call if you like the results or not. picrel is a pic of jeans i did it on to show you what you can expect it to look like.
      you could also scissor crop them and do away with the idea of having a hem at all (leave extra length for fraying at least 1") or something like that.
      its not what you’re asking, but you can also open up the hem on jeans to get some extra length, looks super cool when they’re heavily faded too.
      the one big tailoring thing with selvedge to be aware of is you can NOT taper them from the outseam without the selvedge line getting mangled up. many tailors don’t know that doing this will bother you and by default tailors will taper from the outseam. always ask for your jeans to be tapered from the INSEAM with selvedge. i’m only mentioning this because it sounds like that might be what you’re mixing the hemming thing up with.
      pic 1/2

  13. Anonymous says:

    1 more thing getting used to squatting > kneeling for short and medium duration tasks and tossing kneepads on if you’re gonna be on an abrasive surface all day goes a long way. also good for your knees. they suck in hot weather my cope is jorts.

  14. Anonymous says:

    i bought like 2 pair of uniqlo jeans years ago. one pair is totally hecked and the other one is getting close. are uniqlo jeans still good? i don’t want raws, i have a pair of dark N&Fs. i just want some comfy lightwash jeans.

    • Anonymous says:

      the non selvedge uniqlo stuff is barely 50% cotton now days, not the best. their selvedge is good but they only do raws.. could bleach them but they only sell slims rn.
      >relaxed
      >light wash
      i can think of some stuff. do you want the leg to have that relaxed at the top sharp taper in the leg look like in the pic or is a more straight cut leg fine? and how light do you want minimum/maximum about?

      • Anonymous says:

        >do you want the leg to have that relaxed at the top sharp taper in the leg look like in the pic or is a more straight cut leg fine?
        i’ve been wearing tapered / slim stuff for so long i don’t know if i can adjust to straight leg tbdesu. i like the weird guy cut N&F does, p standard taper.
        i don’t want to go through the selvedge/raw thing again though. it’s cool and all but the uniqlo jeans ive got are crazy soft.
        > and how light do you want minimum/maximum about?
        light. levi’s light wash is a bit too much but more that ballpark. sky blue.

        >muh uniqlo
        Stop sucking off these 2-3 brands you stupid hecking consooomers. Go to your local mall, look at their collection, find some quality stuff and get it. Or search through Amazon or Shartmart or any other e-commerce website and look for quality PRODUCTS, not brands, and buy the stuff that fulfill your requirements. heck the labels.
        With online shopping you can have access to a 1000 different brands, a lot of which give you products and deals that big brands no longer do because they care more about their profits than their customers. And you get it for significantly lower price because you’re not paying for all the overheads the brand has to deal with in a brick and mortar shop.

        >quality PRODUCTS
        if a company makes products and they’re all the same, then you can be sure that the item i got and the item you got are about the same. and if mine is good and i had a good experience then so will you. i don’t want to heck around with dealchasing. buying garbage sucks.

        • Anonymous says:

          https://japanblue-jeans.com/jbag1540-fad.html
          https://beamhill.fi/shop/edwin-made-in-japan-regular-tapered-rainbow-selvage-blue-light-used/
          https://www.unionclothing.co.uk/products/edwin-regular-tapered-jeans-kaihara-yoshiko-blue-light-used-01×1
          https://www.blueowl.us/products/14-5oz-stonewashed-selvedge-denim-petit-new-standard-m09047?variant=22470755123258
          https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/levis-made-crafted/levis-made-crafted-for-men/502-taper-fit-selvedge-mens-jeans/p/565180077
          i can keep going if none of these do it for you

        • Anonymous says:

          if you already got those n&fs and want them soft just throw them in the wash –> tumble dryer with fabric softener like 2 maybe 3 times it’ll do the trick. low or medium low heat on the dryer if you don’t want shrinkage. they should start getting pretty soft.
          of the ones i linked i think the apc’s will be the softest.

        • Anonymous says:

          All your clothes are made in sweatshops in Bangladesh and India, regardless of the brand. They simply change a few things around and slap the label of different brands onto them. These days with mainstream brands like Uniqlo and even Levis, you’re paying for the brand name, not the product. You can get the same product for a fraction of the price with lesser known brands. And if you really want something from a "reputable" brand, then get them from Wranglers. They have pretty good 100% cotton durable straight leg jeans at decent prices.

          • Anonymous says:

            as a burger if wranglers were $100 i’d still buy them
            they’d have to give me a real leather patch for that price though

          • Anonymous says:

            I’m euro. A couple of months ago I got two pairs of the 13mwz off vinted for dirt cheap since the other only option to get them in my country is from amazon at about 60.
            Honestly, they blow the heck out of levis so much it’s unreal (levis retails for 90-100 here, with the premium line going for 120-130). Even at the same price as levis they’re still the best option by a long stretch. Also agreed on the leather patch.

          • Anonymous says:

            They’re all I wear now that I’ve given up on throwing money away on Japanese jeans that never end up fitting. Only issue is the actual is pretty shit, rivers falling off, lots of loose threads

          • Anonymous says:

            Neither of my two pairs had any qc of note. If by loose threds you mean that extea thread hanging in places were they cut it while sewing, yeah, they had a couple, but that also happened in my levis. So far all the rivets are in place, but I don’t hold cheap, mass produced clothes to the same standards than higher end stuff.
            As a side note I got a pair from Brave Star and those are absurdly good considering the price, probably best in their range. At least until I get some tcb myself.

          • Anonymous says:

            theres not NEARLY as much of it as with levi’s, but there’s japanese brands that do repros of wrangler and lee cuts if you want those with higher qc.

    • Anonymous says:

      >muh uniqlo
      Stop sucking off these 2-3 brands you stupid hecking consooomers. Go to your local mall, look at their collection, find some quality stuff and get it. Or search through Amazon or Shartmart or any other e-commerce website and look for quality PRODUCTS, not brands, and buy the stuff that fulfill your requirements. heck the labels.
      With online shopping you can have access to a 1000 different brands, a lot of which give you products and deals that big brands no longer do because they care more about their profits than their customers. And you get it for significantly lower price because you’re not paying for all the overheads the brand has to deal with in a brick and mortar shop.

  15. Anonymous says:

    What’s the difference between wrangler and rustler?

    Also can I remove that stupid wrangler patch or will it be noticeable?

    • Anonymous says:

      Not all Wranglers have those thick patches. Their Authentics line apparently have a regular thin patch near the waist.

    • Anonymous says:

      rustler is a budget line (recently made walmart/amazon exclusive i think) that wrangler introduced in the 80s where the fits are based on cowboy cuts but the details are simplified (no patch, bar tacks instead of rivets, different coin pocket design or no coin pocket etc) and they’re made of a right hand twill denim instead of a broken twill denim. it feels like the same thickness as cowboy cuts to me but i’ve seen some people measure them closer to 12oz/yd (levi’s weight) if they are they are on the thick side for their weight.
      the fits for the rustler line are all pretty much the same as their cowboy cut equivalents (straight = 13mwz, bootcut = 935nav, relaxed = 31mwz etc) the upper block might be ever so slightly tweaked (same high rise) and they might shrink a bit differently but that’s abt it.
      despite being a budget line they’re basically just as good as cowboy cuts. rustlers have a more workweary vibe and the raw indigo ones have a much darker, deeper dye job. wranglers have a more western vibe and that unique blueberry color starting out that washes to a soft blue and the really nice broken twill fabric.
      oh and btw if all you guys didn’t know the broken twill fabric those wrangler cowboy cuts i memed you all into buying is usa cotton and made by mt vernon mills its virtually identical to the denim lee was using in the 1970’s. they just say made in mexico on them because they ship it down there to sew it into jeans. i think the rustler fabric is a mystery meat, i haven’t seen any info on where its from. likely either also mt vernon mills or somewhere in mexico.
      its absurd how nice both are for the price. i don’t see them any different from my finest loomstate mysterious japanese grandpa selvedge. enjoy the new meme jeans friends.

        • Anonymous says:

          no the meme wranglers is the cowboy cut line which should be available in 100% cotton and raw.
          https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/194ee7m/quick_and_dirty_guide_to_rigid_wrangler_cuts/
          this plebbit thread is a good rundown of them and what model numbers they are to find them on wranglers website.
          rustler has equivalents to most but not all the cowboy cut fits.

          • Anonymous says:

            These have a nice high rise which is my number 1 annoyance with 501s and they’re only €45 on amazon. heck it why not, I’ll just cut off that stupid patch.

          • Anonymous says:

            after a wash you can’t tell the patch was ever there.
            you can get some of the jap stuff in the wide leg high rise post i made earlier itt for about 150€ if you proxy buy too. or less if you heck around with yahoo auctions and such.

  16. Anonymous says:

    13mwz are a ~50 year old reproduction jean based on a ~75 year old design completely unchanged over time other than that the leather patch got nerfed and they’re assembled in mexico now (cotton and fabric is still from usa
    levi’s charges you $295 or 4 installments of $73.75 for the same thing except its not even the same fabric they used back then its their closest approximation.

    • Anonymous says:

      The funniest thing is that none of the modern LVC jeans are actually faithful reproductions of how Levi’s jeans were like back in the years mentioned in the names of their models. None of them truly reproduce the rise, for example.

    • Anonymous says:

      iktf
      >have 5 pairs of raws
      >N&F drops the Aomidori line
      >want to buy it just for the patch
      Why must I suffer so? I don’t need it but that patch is cool

      • Anonymous says:

        They release MIJ’s every year with that patch, there’ll be another one some time this year I think

  17. Anonymous says:

    Is the 501 stf just a bad cut for manual labor or should I get stretch raw denim? I just didn’t have enough mobility – I tried wearing them for like a week but couldn’t deal with them

    • Anonymous says:

      Anybody?

      the modern 501stf isn’t really made for labor. levi’s has been more about fashion since 1950. however repros of pre ww2 501 cuts are jeans that were made for coal miners and shit, strictly work first in design, especially the older you go. if you get a 20-30s era 501 cut, size up, and use the back cinch you’d need very blasted thighs to not have full mobility.
      i would suggest going for a looser cut of denim than getting stretch denim but honestly it kind of comes down to your physique. dudes on the chubbier amerishart might actually want to go for stretch just so you can comfortmaxx in the upper block. if you’re fit just get looser jeans.
      i answered a similar question earlier as well might be helpful to you

      >did
      i fibbed i’m neeting and trying to decide on something a bit easier on my spine to pivot to kek
      things i look for in a good pair of work jeans is: 12-15ish oz fabric jeans with a back cinch in wide legged ~1920-30’s repro cuts. during this era and anything earlier jeans had a back cinch which lets you size up 1-2 sizes. jeans were overalls back then — they’re wide leg so you can wear them over other pants like chinos or something if you want to. i prefer mid weight denim to heavy weight because heavy denim isn’t as good for abrasion and you’re gonna be abrading your jeans a lot doing construction. if they catch a nail or something that sucks, get the sashiko thread and denim patches out. faithful or modified interpretations of repro jeans are fine just anything thats mid/high rise and very wide legged. how tapered the upper block you want is up to you, theres years with different fits. if you want a high rise get a straight up repro cut. i preferred wearing a mid rise and my toolbelt higher on my waist personally whatevers comfy for you.
      if you don’t wear a toolbelt overalls are based as shit too.
      my fave jeans were some evisus i bought 06-07ish. modified 30’s repro cut with the main differences being a mid rise and extra large rear pockets, 12oz non selvedge fabric, bombproof.
      something like fullcount 0105 15oz would be a solid contender for a high rise enjoyer. zimbabwe cotton is strong in my experience. legs are huge on those. only downside to them is no back cinch.
      i also really liked having a lighter ~10oz pair for roofs and outdoor summer jobs. repro denim is readily available in light weights bc thats historically accurate.
      if you need max protectiveness/knee thigh durability at all cost go for double knee ducks not denim. denims the best all rounder and more comfy to wear.

      here’s an even more in depth answer that requires basically no reading
      here’s a youtube channel that is basically levi’s chan a comprehensive history

      or go to ‘den in denim’ then playlists –> 501 history
      go to this 501 history playlist and watch the relevant sections of the years around that era maybe a bit before or after whatever tickles your pickle and learn about the different repro cuts you can choose from, from when jeans were actually designed to be worked in not for looks. i think they looked cooler too but that’s just me.
      youtube guy is only going to cover levi’s branded products for the most part in the videos. jap brands make this stuff too readily. imo better quality and price ratio and often more historically accurate than levi’s/lvc themself.
      its also key to learn how to repair jeans. get a sewing machine or sashiko stuff or both. learning curve isnt huge for most ways of repairing jeans. just machine darning which isn’t necessary for work jeans.

  18. Anonymous says:

    here’s another way to put it if you dont have a belly and your waist’s smaller than your hips get bigger jeans.
    if you do have a gut or you’re fat stretch is actually kino. your jeans will fall apart more, price to pay. don’t go for goofy synthetic blends or more than like 1-2% elastine.

    • Anonymous says:

      >No bit of denim sticking up through the rivets
      >Flat belt loops, no cotton stuffed in them to give them raised 3d effect
      Otherwise detailing is fine at least from what i can see in the front, i wouldn’t be surprised if they didn’t have hidden back pocket rivets either

      https://i.imgur.com/aShJ0rU.jpeg

      Can anyone recommend me a brand and model of a relaxed straight fit with high rise, please?

      I tried N&F strong guy and it’s almost perfect except for the medium rise. I’m tall and burly so the taper fit makes me look like a gay.

      The model pictures make the strong guy look funny but looks pretty good when tried on.

      https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/collections/jeans/products/pre-order-page-s40s-jeans
      Email them for size chart i guess, i dunno why it’s not posted
      Denim made by collect mills, the best factory in the business

  19. Anonymous says:

    Can anyone recommend me a brand and model of a relaxed straight fit with high rise, please?

    I tried N&F strong guy and it’s almost perfect except for the medium rise. I’m tall and burly so the taper fit makes me look like a gay.

    The model pictures make the strong guy look funny but looks pretty good when tried on.

    • Anonymous says:

      Sugarcane 1947. Any Levi’s repros will be your best fit. A lot of modern Japanese denim make their cuts more slim. Even the “straight” cuts from companies like IH, N&F, and Momotaro fit almost slim on dudes who have even remotely larger thighs

      • Anonymous says:

        Can confirm I’m not tall or fat but have big thighs and the 888s barely work. I’ll have to try the sugars at some point

        • Anonymous says:

          You gotta size up. I went off of my best fitting jeans and they "fit" but felt way too tight even after breaking in. Up one size with a belt and they’re perfect. The way the waist tapers in from the hips helps avoid any excessive bunching too, which is nice

      • Anonymous says:

        brands/models that are relaxed/wide leg and also (actually) high rise. a lot of jeans that say they’re high rise from japan aren’t imo. i’m not counting 11 inch rise stuff. incomplete list.
        one piece of rock (various cuts, to my knowledge they do the highest rise of anyone)
        soso & lets you customize fit
        ciano farmer & lets you customize fit
        evisu japan lot 2001 <– insanely underrated fit
        mister freedom (various cuts)
        sugarcane (various cuts)
        tcb 50s sized up
        ooe yofukuten (various cuts)
        real mccoy’s lot 900s
        warehouse (various cuts, duck digger is their repro line)
        graph zero (various cuts)
        freewheelers (various)
        the flat head 3004 (prly the best cut that isn’t a full on repro jean)
        wrangler 31mwz <– best budget option
        MOST japanese brands offering wwii repro jeans or pre wwii repro jeans will have high rise offerings. Some of them opt to shrink the rise a little always consult the charts.
        also be aware anything with suspenders or a back cinch you can, and you’re kind of meant to go up a size or 2 and use them. which makes the cuts all even looser.

        Insane, thank you anons

        • Anonymous says:

          i barely even scratched the surface man thats just off the top of my head.
          ww2 and pre ww2 repro jeans is like an entire world.
          and most of the info on it is in moon runes. plebbit ig sufu styleforum etc are good resources for us who speak english. rakuten and other .jp proxy forwarding services, or just going to japan is the best way to get this stuff usually.

        • Anonymous says:

          yo also if you work out (fair guess with the question) back cinch/suspender jeans (whatever’s your style) are a god sent for weight fluctuations.

      • Anonymous says:

        You gotta size up on IH and wear a belt. I wear a 31 or 32 in cowboy cuts but need a 34 in 888. By some nipponese magic, the waist doesn’t scrunch at all with a belt

        It’s more the broken twill that I’m after than anything. 13MWZ are my best fitting and most comfortable jeans in large part due to the fabric. But I hate the blueberry phase.

        Actually heck it I’m grabbing some rit dye and ODing my Wranglers. Might be dope. Might be absolute trash. Either way I’m only out $30

        Just took the 13mwz out of the dye fixer (picrel) and have them in the wash now. I used a Rit back to black kit (figure cheap dye will fade away faster) and let them sit in boiling hot dye for an hour then did 20m in the fixer with tap hot.

    • Anonymous says:

      brands/models that are relaxed/wide leg and also (actually) high rise. a lot of jeans that say they’re high rise from japan aren’t imo. i’m not counting 11 inch rise stuff. incomplete list.
      one piece of rock (various cuts, to my knowledge they do the highest rise of anyone)
      soso & lets you customize fit
      ciano farmer & lets you customize fit
      evisu japan lot 2001 <– insanely underrated fit
      mister freedom (various cuts)
      sugarcane (various cuts)
      tcb 50s sized up
      ooe yofukuten (various cuts)
      real mccoy’s lot 900s
      warehouse (various cuts, duck digger is their repro line)
      graph zero (various cuts)
      freewheelers (various)
      the flat head 3004 (prly the best cut that isn’t a full on repro jean)
      wrangler 31mwz <– best budget option
      MOST japanese brands offering wwii repro jeans or pre wwii repro jeans will have high rise offerings. Some of them opt to shrink the rise a little always consult the charts.
      also be aware anything with suspenders or a back cinch you can, and you’re kind of meant to go up a size or 2 and use them. which makes the cuts all even looser.

  20. Anonymous says:

    sufu forums is a pretty good resource for this stuff repro jeans people who like these wider cuts gravitate(d) there and a lot of the ancient posts are still relevant so long as the brand didn’t go under. its not like theres a new 2025 model of the ww2 repro pants.

  21. Anonymous says:

    Bros, I think fades look like shit and would prefer to keep them as dark blue as possible. How do I achieve this? Just never wash them pretty much?

    • Anonymous says:

      All denim will fade with friction so not washing won’t help. Maybe try overdyed iron heart. They won’t fade for a long time.

    • Anonymous says:

      for black jeans that’s easy just get reactive dyed jeans.
      for blue jeans a little trickier. there’s some indigo jeans out there that are pretty colorfast. jeans that are dyed really deep and close to the core can take years to fade. i have a pair with years and years of manual labor wear on them that are just starting to get whiskers and low contrast fading showing up at the thighs/knees. discontinued or i’d rec, but the fabric’s from kaihara on mine might help.
      >Just never wash them pretty much?
      no opposite. if you don’t wash you’ll maximize contrast. if you wash normally you won’t get those sharp lines and creases. only the more gradual soft parts of the fade over time. wash every few wears 15-30 at most without washing.

    • Anonymous says:

      Pay a ton of money and buy hank-dyed indigo jeans, or look for reactive dyed jeans which I think can come in black or indigo.

    • Anonymous says:

      Wash fortnightly or weekly and add vinegar to the machine to help reduce fading. Wash with a cold temp and not for very long, delicate setting should help too. Look specifically for colorfast denim. If you want Japanese denim, selvedge denim from the Kaihara mill tends to take a really long time to fade.

    • Anonymous says:

      Look into how the dying is done. There are japanese brands where they dunk every thread in a big barrel of dye and they do it like 30 times. That stuff is not fading. The cheap way that fades easily is when they run the thread through the dye like a rope

  22. Anonymous says:

    that pic isnt my jeans i was talking about btw its an example of what the low contrast part of the fade means

  23. Anonymous says:

    Umm, are black jeans supposed to stink? Bought my first proper black jeans and they smell like hecking sewage. And no, I didn’t buy them from Shartmart.

    • Anonymous says:

      Yes, extremely normal. It doesn’t mean they are from walmart or shitty. I have a pair of black Oni Secret Denim and they stunk for the first few weeks. The smell will diminish over time and after you’ve washed them 3 or 4 times you probably won’t smell them again.

      Good black denim is dyed with sulfur like the other guy said.

      • Anonymous says:

        Yeah, just washed them a couple of times because I couldn’t stand the smell. First in a bucket and then in the washing machine with 2 rinse cycles, and nearly 70% of the smell is gone. It still stinks a bit of sulfur and my eyes burn if I put my face close to it for too long, but I guess it’s a lot more wearable now than before. Also, I spin dried it without using any heat and removed it immediately and line dried it. So it didn’t get wrinkled and probably won’t get any marbling.

    • Anonymous says:

      Levis get a lot of bad rep but I’ve got two pairs of the premium line (the one with the leather patch and a white label sewn inside of thecwaist that says premium) and while it’s a bit more expensive (around 120) and very rarely goes on sale, the jump in quality is worth it compared to the main line. There’s better options at that price range, but the availability can’t be beat.

      • Anonymous says:

        their made & crafted line is really good too. they don’t offer much stuff right now but its one to keep an eye out for thrifting etc.

        • Anonymous says:

          I’ve read somewhere that the premium line is meant to replace made&crafted. Which makes sense from a cost-cutting perspective since made&crafted is superior to premium. Also, Ihaven’t seen it at stores for some time.
          But yeah, you can find selvedge jeans from made&crafted at thrift stores, secondhand sites and theblike. Some of them are even made with japanese denim.

  24. Anonymous says:

    why are you guys paying 15+ for any pair of jeans? Anywhose have any of you guise tied out levi’s 559’s? They are the best jeans I ever got, feel like pyjama pants but look like jeans and have good classic wide fit/straight leg; whatever. Even for a big guy like me they fit smooth, usually my calves pop out unaesthetically, but these are just like a curtain over them

      • Anonymous says:

        I’m 196 with size 38 waist… yes they do. All my former jeans felt like a shrinkwrap and I couldn’t bend down comfortably but the 559s are flexible and fit streamline to my legs and my calves nor thighs portrude awkwardly/ are too tight. + it doesn’t chafe, which I probably should have mentioned first

    • Anonymous says:

      Yeah, no man should wear anything less than relaxed and straight fit. Slim, skinny and even tapered fit are for women. Once you go straight and relaxed fit, you can never go back. Everything else starts to feel like leggins and yoga pants, with the fabric always rubbing against and crushing your legs.

      • Anonymous says:

        thankfully I have been saved. What are those jeans? are they the same that I posted or a different line/manufacturer?

        • Anonymous says:

          Yeah, they are Levis 559.

          […]
          how do you guys even tuck with low rise jeans?

          Low rise jeans are not for tucking. You need at least mid rise.

    • Anonymous says:

      https://i.imgur.com/N3EZdSW.jpeg

      Yeah, no man should wear anything less than relaxed and straight fit. Slim, skinny and even tapered fit are for women. Once you go straight and relaxed fit, you can never go back. Everything else starts to feel like leggins and yoga pants, with the fabric always rubbing against and crushing your legs.

      you guys should see my post about wide leg high rise jeans

      brands/models that are relaxed/wide leg and also (actually) high rise. a lot of jeans that say they’re high rise from japan aren’t imo. i’m not counting 11 inch rise stuff. incomplete list.
      one piece of rock (various cuts, to my knowledge they do the highest rise of anyone)
      soso & lets you customize fit
      ciano farmer & lets you customize fit
      evisu japan lot 2001 <– insanely underrated fit
      mister freedom (various cuts)
      sugarcane (various cuts)
      tcb 50s sized up
      ooe yofukuten (various cuts)
      real mccoy’s lot 900s
      warehouse (various cuts, duck digger is their repro line)
      graph zero (various cuts)
      freewheelers (various)
      the flat head 3004 (prly the best cut that isn’t a full on repro jean)
      wrangler 31mwz <– best budget option
      MOST japanese brands offering wwii repro jeans or pre wwii repro jeans will have high rise offerings. Some of them opt to shrink the rise a little always consult the charts.
      also be aware anything with suspenders or a back cinch you can, and you’re kind of meant to go up a size or 2 and use them. which makes the cuts all even looser.

      if you don’t have a beer gut you should be wearing mid-high or high rise.

        • Anonymous says:

          if your torso’s short then yeah low rise would be the best. i would go for one towards the medium rise side of the spectrum when you are tucking your shirts — the ones you guys posted look good. untucked it doesn’t matter.
          if you have both long legs and a long torso and you’re just tall over all go for mid or mid high. leg:torso ratio is actually a lot less connected to overall height than people assume.

          • Anonymous says:

            i’ll make another post one of these days for wide leg denim in general, sorted by rise, not just the high rise stuff. there’s actually more options out there for low and mid rise than high. its kind of confusing and hard to search online because one brand’s high rise is another brand’s low rise so the product descriptions are useless you have to go off the measurements. idk when i’ll make it but i’ll post it in whatever denim thread’s going on @ the time.

            Appreciate the education

    • Anonymous says:

      https://i.imgur.com/N3EZdSW.jpeg

      Yeah, no man should wear anything less than relaxed and straight fit. Slim, skinny and even tapered fit are for women. Once you go straight and relaxed fit, you can never go back. Everything else starts to feel like leggins and yoga pants, with the fabric always rubbing against and crushing your legs.

      how do you guys even tuck with low rise jeans?

  25. Anonymous says:

    i’ll make another post one of these days for wide leg denim in general, sorted by rise, not just the high rise stuff. there’s actually more options out there for low and mid rise than high. its kind of confusing and hard to search online because one brand’s high rise is another brand’s low rise so the product descriptions are useless you have to go off the measurements. idk when i’ll make it but i’ll post it in whatever denim thread’s going on @ the time.

  26. Anonymous says:

    Which high end jeans are generally considered to take the longest to fade and patina? Want the longest life out of my jeans.

    • Anonymous says:

      >https://youtube.com/shorts/qicKFMz-BzU?
      I’ve owned both the 634 and 888 cuts. The 888 is a more balanced, universal cut assuming you can fit into their thigh dimensions. The rise on the 634 is just too low, whilst you have just enough rise with the 888 while also having a small taper at the hem. IH is known for being slightly more slim than traditional repro jeans

    • Anonymous says:

      go off sleeve length and shoulder fit
      you can roll the sleeves if too long on denim ones but itd look weird on a leather one idk which youre looking at
      if both sizes work on your build like me go tts on ones you plan to wear standalone like as spring summer jackets and size up on fall winter ones to layer under. (you can still layer over a tts one and wear it in cold weather but its no longer outerwear. type iiis can be either.)

  27. Anonymous says:

    I bought a pair of Iron Hearts in my normal size, first pair ever. I could not get the motherheckers on when I first tried. I had to wet the waistband and put them on right away, and wear them all day.

  28. Anonymous says:

    Does anyone rate the chinos from brands like Iron Heart, Stevenson Overall, or Seuvas? I would typically get something like Dickies ’cause it’s poly cotton blend.

    • Anonymous says:

      IH is generally a little more slim than a standard Levi’s repro jean, so their slim fits are going to be slim af. Go for their 888

        • Anonymous says:

          888 is their lifter’s cut. It works for anyone with a small waist and bigger legs (within reason), so I can see it working for women with hourglass figures

          If 666 is too tight, but otherwise works for you I would try the 555, 634, and 633 (in that order) before going to the 888. The 555 is a bit looser and sits higher than the 666, the 634 is kinda like a lower-mid rise 501 (works well on short Asian physiques, not so much on taller western ones), and the 633 is the 634 tapered below the knee (Self Edge exclusive iirc)

          If you do like the lower rise on the 666 you might like the 634z. It’s Japan exclusive and since it’s not sold in the West (and not selvedge), you can get it for non-rape prices on eBay. Its basically a biker version of the the 634. You lose the selvedge and button fly but get tougher denim, a lower front rise, and a better fit below the knee because the pattern isn’t constrained by the selvedge edge

        • Anonymous says:

          Pretty much this

          888 is their lifter’s cut. It works for anyone with a small waist and bigger legs (within reason), so I can see it working for women with hourglass figures

          If 666 is too tight, but otherwise works for you I would try the 555, 634, and 633 (in that order) before going to the 888. The 555 is a bit looser and sits higher than the 666, the 634 is kinda like a lower-mid rise 501 (works well on short Asian physiques, not so much on taller western ones), and the 633 is the 634 tapered below the knee (Self Edge exclusive iirc)

          If you do like the lower rise on the 666 you might like the 634z. It’s Japan exclusive and since it’s not sold in the West (and not selvedge), you can get it for non-rape prices on eBay. Its basically a biker version of the the 634. You lose the selvedge and button fly but get tougher denim, a lower front rise, and a better fit below the knee because the pattern isn’t constrained by the selvedge edge

          You can also buy a standard pair of 634 with the selvedge and button fly from a few Japanese eBay retailers for like $270-280 brand new. That being said, the taper ratio on the 633 and 888 is magical. Very minimal taper to be able to fit your jeans over some boot while also giving the optimally shaped leg silhouette

  29. Anonymous says:

    >be me
    >Rotating 21oz indigo and overdyed 888s. Both have plenty of life left
    >Eyeing IH broken twill 888s
    >Handful of pairs left in my size
    >Seasonal/limited item

    Talk me in or out of it bros

    • Anonymous says:

      To me, IH flourishes with their 21 oz. Don’t get me wrong, I love their regular 14 oz and their vintage 18 oz denim, but if you’re wanting to get a pair of 14 oz jeans you should get some variation in the wardrobe. I also have 3 pairs of 888 (21 oz indigo and overdyed, 25 oz indigo), but I recently got a pair of Flat Head D110 which are their 14 oz LHT. The cut is very similar to the 888 because of its straight leg and very minimal taper, but in a way it’s even better because it’s actually a more authentic straight leg because the thigh dimension (and associated hem opening) is like ~0.2 inches bigger.

      • Anonymous says:

        It’s more the broken twill that I’m after than anything. 13MWZ are my best fitting and most comfortable jeans in large part due to the fabric. But I hate the blueberry phase.

        Actually heck it I’m grabbing some rit dye and ODing my Wranglers. Might be dope. Might be absolute trash. Either way I’m only out $30

        • Anonymous says:

          I mean, if you’re already willing to drop the money, might as well just get the IH. You’ll end up wishing you got the jeans you actually wanted, and they probably won’t produce that fabric again for at least a few years. It’s the same shit with their OD 21 oz, they only really produce it every 2 years so you pretty much just have to bite the bullet and get it when you can. These companies are only going to be able to keep using their shuttle looms for so long, and the denim is going to keep getting more and more expensive as more looms start falling apart and supply decreases

          • Anonymous says:

            Oh I definitely plan on grabbing another pair of 21oz ODs in my size next time they restock. Ditto for the SBG. And I’ll likely grab another indigo pair down the line as well. Wanna build up a stockpile for when we reach peak selvedge.

            evisu no.1/2 lot 2001 or momotaro 0905sp

            […]
            lee repro is often in broken twill. they have the same small and high rear pocket type fit as wranglers too. as are a lot of 11mw repros even though it wouldn’t be the period correct fabric on it. note there’s no secret special sauce to a $200 pair of japanese broken twill jeans they’re usually trying to emulate the original fabric that wrangler & lee used to use which is coincidentally the same fabric your $30 wranglers are made of still to this day (its rather nice)
            if you like the fabric and you like ih’s cuts i’d say go for it. they look vnice. i’d personally go for leepro or maybe even 11mw repro but that’s just cause i already have a lot of jeans that fit like ih’s offerings and not as much repro.

            In my experience Lees are usually cut too snug through the thighs. And I really like the 888 cut, but it’s 90% of the way to a perfect fit (I still have to size up in the waist to get a comfortable leg) whereas the 13mwz feels like it was cut for me. So it’s really IH’s 21oz denim that keeps me in their camp. Yeah, I’ll dye the wranglers and save the $400 for the next SBG drop. Cheers anon!

          • Anonymous says:

            11mw repro is an option, the fit is the same as 13mwz with button fly and such. if you really hunt around you can find right hand twill 12oz selvedge vintage 13mwz deadstock too and it doesnt command insane prices like levi’s.

    • Anonymous says:

      Yep

      Pls explain blueberry phase

      After a few washes 13mwz turn an almost electric blueberry color. It’s distinct AF and takes ages to get through before they lighten up to a more normal light blue

  30. Anonymous says:

    I know one of you posted the Reddit wrangler post but I’m trying to figure out if I should get 13mwz or 31mwz?

    I have pretty muscular thighs so leaning towards 31mwz but is there anything else different with the 31mwz?

      • Anonymous says:

        Idk I should measure my thighs it seems to be my issue with jeans. Is there a certain part of the thigh to measure? Or just the biggest part maybe?

        • Anonymous says:

          Biggest part. Reason being both jeans have a comparable rise and waistband but the 31 has a looser leg. If you’re fit (so small waist relative to big legs) with horse legs, or you want a loose fit, you might need the 31mwz. If you’re fit with big but not equestrian legs you’ll be fine with the 13mwz. If you try them on and the leg on either is loose while the waistband is too tight, you don’t actually have big legs and you’re a skinnyfat heck

          Any way to avoid this?

          Nope

  31. Anonymous says:

    Don’t want Levi’s. Don’t want rustlers. Don’t want wranglers. What’s left for a poor man’s raw denim?

    • Anonymous says:

      You can get Bravestars for considerably less than all the jap brands. They have heavy weight denim with all of the same structural features that Iron Heart uses

    • Anonymous says:

      japanese brands like tcb and japan blue are rather cheap while retaining high quality.
      and there’s also naked & famous and all the other brands using their business model such as brave star who import japanese fabrics and sew the jeans in north america to circumvent tariffs = lower cost for same quality.

  32. Anonymous says:

    Does anyone know the Nudie cuts most like APC New Standard and Jean Standard?
    I can’t find measurements for the APCs.

  33. Anonymous says:

    If I see someone wearing the same jeans everyday I just assume they’re dirty. Nobody cares how expensive your bespoke Japanese jeans you just look weird.

    • Anonymous says:

      I have yet to find good brands for cheap in Europe. However, if you want brands that are at the bare minimum as good as levis or better for the same price or less, here’s my experience:

      >uniqlo
      Even their non selvedge stuff is as good as levis or better but about half the price
      >wrangler
      They don’t carry the good models here, but their other stuff is better than levis at about the same price and usually go on sale at 50% off
      >C&A
      Not really good but can be had super cheap and they last a lot
      >H&M
      Usually utter trash, but sometimes they carry jeans with a thicker denim that can be had in sale for about ten bucks
      >inditex brands
      Avoid save for Massimo Dutti. Once in a blue moon the carry selvedge.

      Again, note that none (save from wrangler perhaps) of these are really good, just on par with levis mainline for less.

      • Anonymous says:

        i heard lee is good in europe, you guys get the asia pricing not the marked up usa pricing.
        there’s some good european brands that aren’t cheap — i’m drawing a blank on the names for a lot of them but check out Dawson.

        • Anonymous says:

          I’ve had two pairs of Lees get a massive crotch blowout in less than a year, and they weren’t even my most worn jeans. My trust in Lee is taintrd so I usually don’t recommend them. Heard good things about the 101 line, but those no longer fall in the cheap category, which for me means under 100 eurobucks.

  34. Anonymous says:

    very specific but does anyone do decent jeans like a classed up wrangler? more than anything I’m in love with the high back pocket design (I read somewhere that they’re designed so you’re not sitting directly on your wallet) and it’s much more flattering on my flat ass than most raws.
    Would keep buying wranglers but I’m tired of the gaudy copper rivets and cutting off the plastic patch

    • Anonymous says:

      wrangler repro https://supertalk.superfuture.com/topic/35953-wrangler-repro-appreciate-thread/
      but they will still have the visible rivets
      i’ve also found some random cuts by random japanese brands where the pockets are small and high set. look at the space between the yoke and pockets then look at a side view of the jeans — for the wrangler fit the rear pockets should sit slightly above the bottom of the front pockets not below or flush with it like most japanese jeans. can’t think of them off the top of my head but its out there. i have some japan blues with a similar rear pocket design but its an old discontinued cut.

  35. Anonymous says:

    also if you don’t want to wait a few years for the copper rivets to dull you could force a patina on them and speed it up. they’re not nearly as gaudy once dark brown color. they do eventually go green though.

  36. Anonymous says:

    >usually made in usa, made out of that exact same mt vernon mills broken twill denim
    they’ll all be non selvedge im talking about the fabric wranglers are made from
    its usa cotton usa milled just good stuff tho

    oh also gap and banana republic occasionally will have straight cut kaihara selvedge on sale. overpriced at retail but theres an 80% off at least once a year. worth popping in and checking when you happen to be near one. at 40-80% off they’re a great buy.

  37. Anonymous says:

    Whatever anybody says, theres no doubt that Iron Heart stands at the top of the denim game. If their cuts don’t fit you or if you don’t want to spend the money then that’s one thing, but I’ve yet to wear anything that actually surpasses them in quality, design, aesthetic, aging, comfort, etc

  38. Anonymous says:

    denim special sauce: buy worn in japanese selvedge on yahoo auctions/etc, then bleach it until light in the bathtub for god tier light wash jeans.
    i’m trying to find the pics again but i saw someone on plebbit did it recently and it came out very similar to picrel.

    • Anonymous says:

      I have no idea why anyone would ruin their jeans like this. Literally zero character to the fading. If you were to instead wash every 2 weeks, you’d get a much more balanced fade pattern with actual character

      • Anonymous says:

        heck high contrast fades. They make your jeans look heck ugly and cheap, like those disgusting acid washed jeans or the cheap jeans thirdies wear that try to replicate high contrast fades using literal prints.

        • Anonymous says:

          I think they look good if they come from actually wearing the jeans. Not only will they be molded to your body, but also the whole jean will too and look worn in, organic, natural, real. It’s the crisp brand new jeans with high contrast fades (snowed in, they’re called) which look like shit and thirdies love for some reason (always skintight).

        • Anonymous says:

          Bro washing your jeans every week or two is going to give you vintage fades, but they’re going to be much more balanced compared to washing them every day lmao

  39. Anonymous says:

    heck you guys. I got memed into buying 13mwz in charcoal. I already have a pair of grey jeans and enough pants. Why must I consoooom?

    • Anonymous says:

      Anyone got a pic of the charcoal ones faded?

      Ok i got a pair of raw wrangler jeans now. I actually got the cowboy cut 936 because they seemed to fit a little bit better than the 13mwz.

      I’m probably going to wait about a month before i wash them and in this month i will be wearing them to skate, hike and do other physical activities that don’t get too dirty. After that month I’ll wash them but then start wearing them at work (construction) and i’ll probably wash them weekly.

      Any thoughts denimbros?

      Wanna do a fade comp anon I’ll buy some this week I’m a construction gay too

  40. Anonymous says:

    Ok i got a pair of raw wrangler jeans now. I actually got the cowboy cut 936 because they seemed to fit a little bit better than the 13mwz.

    I’m probably going to wait about a month before i wash them and in this month i will be wearing them to skate, hike and do other physical activities that don’t get too dirty. After that month I’ll wash them but then start wearing them at work (construction) and i’ll probably wash them weekly.

    Any thoughts denimbros?

    • Anonymous says:

      If you got the rigid indigo, when they start to fade they show some electric blue (blueberry) lines that some people hate. Once you’re statt washing them weekly you’ll accelerate the blueberry phase into the traditional fades.

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